64 SAVEUR.COM
- Clockwise from top left: The exterior of
Testi; Ferhat Dirrik (right) of Mangal II
with a cousin; the mangal at Testi.
ali nazik (grilled ground lamb set
on a bed of puréed eggplant and
yogurt) are some of the best out-
side Istanbul. But the restaurant
also specializes in grilled sweet-
breads, kidneys, and liver, and
has an extensive mezze menu,
with spicy sujuk sausages, creamy
hummus, and imam bayıldı—egg-
plants stuffed with onions and
peppers. “It just shows how broad
an identity a ‘Turkish’ person can
have,” Ferhat says. “No one has a
single identity these days. We’re
all mixed, and that’s a good thing.
But any way, I always identify as a
Londoner first and foremost.”
Ferhat has achieved a degree
of notoriety online, with posts
railing against the failings of
the Tory government, rallying
against racism, mocking hipster
culture and bemoaning gentri-
fication, and playfully arguing
about which is the best grill
house in London (his, of course).
All of that talk would be for
nothing if the food didn’t back
it up. In Ferhat’s eyes, ocakbaşi
restaurants have achieved such
popularity in London simply
because they employ the best
way to cook meat. “The meat
fat drips on the charcoal, then
the charcoal produces a vapor,
which then rises up and per-
fumes the meat,” he says. All of
this moisture results in more-
tender shish kebabs. “You can’t
pan-fry meat to this f lavor, you
can’t bake it to this f lavor. It’s all
about the mangal.” Zucchini and Feta Fritters
MAKES ABOUT 20
Active: 35 min. • Total: 1 hr. 5 min.
These plump, pan-fried fritters are perfect for early
fall, when fresh zucchini is in abundance. While they
a re most traditiona lly ser ve d a s snacks with drinks a s
part of a mezze spread, they make a good, light coun-
terpoint to heavier, meatier mangal dishes. Serve
warm or at room temperature.3 medium zucchini, coarsely grated (4 cups)
Kosher salt
4 large eggs, beaten
½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
3 medium scallions, finely chopped (⅓ cup)
¼ cup finely chopped fresh dill
2 large garlic cloves, minced (1 tsp.)
1 tsp. ground coriander
½ tsp. sweet paprika
Freshly ground black pepper
5 oz. feta, crumbled (1 cup)
Canola or sunflower oil, for frying
Labneh or thick plain yogurt, for serving
Lemon wedges, for serving
1 Set a colander in the sink and add the zucchini.
S prinkle 1 tea spoon kosher sa lt over the zucchini,
toss gently to combine, and let rest to drain the liquid
for 30 minutes. Then use your hands to squeeze out
and discard any remaining liquid.
2 In a large bowl, add the zucchini, eggs, flour, scal-
lions, garlic, dill, coriander, and paprika, and mix
well with a spatula. Add ½ teaspoon salt, a generous
pinch of black pepper, and the crumbled feta, and
fold in gently to incorporate withou t brea king up the
feta too much.
3 Set the batter by the stove. Line a large baking
sheet with paper towels, and set it by the stove as
well. In a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat,
add enough oil to reach ¼ inch up the sides. Once
hot and just barely beginning to smoke, spoon a few
2-tablespoon-size scoops of batter into the oil (avoid
overcrowding). Lightly press each fritter down with
the back of a spoon, flattening it slightly. Cook, turn-
ing once, until the fritters are golden and crisp on
both sides, 5–6 minutes total.
4 Use a slotted spoon or spatula to transfer the
cooke d frit ter s to the line d ba king she et. C ontinue
cooking the rest of the batter. Serve warm or at room
temperature, with labneh and lemon wedges.