P
H
E
N
O
M
E
N
O
N
ME TT LE
THE PETALSWITH
TULIPS ARE
JOINING A GARDEN
OF FLOWERS
THAT HAVE BEEN
WHIPPED INTO
SERUMS, MASKS,
AND CREAMS. BUT
CAN THESE
BLOOMS REALLY
SMOOTH, FADE,
OR PLUMP? WE
RAN OUR PICKS
BY A COSMETIC
CHEMIST FOR
HER TAKE. BY
ELIZABETH SIEGEL
IMMORTELLE
These tiny, bright-
yellow buds are
famous for staying
sunny forever after
they’ve been picked
(hence the name).
“Like many other
plants, immortelle has
known antioxidant
properties, but it also
has anti-inflammatory
ones, which have been
widely studied,” says
cosmetic chemist
Ni’Kita Wilson. “The
science here is very
sound.” FOUND IN:
L’Occitane Immortelle
Precious Serum
DAISIES
The world’s cheeriest
flower has “strong
activity against
pigmentation and can
prevent melanin from
being produced and
settling into skin,
according to studies
from raw-material
suppliers,” says Wilson.
Of course, those
suppliers are the ones
selling the daisy
extracts. The studies
are promising but
require further
validation. FOUND IN:
Dr. Hauschka Melissa
Day Cream
ROSES
Romantic but also
practical: “Extracts have
been shown to protect
fibroblasts [which create
collagen],” says Wilson.
Plus, 17 rose species are
known to contain ellagic
acid (a brightening agent,
according to Wilson)
along with flavonoid
antioxidants that protect
skin from environmental
damage. FOUND IN:
Lancôme Absolue
Revitalizing
& Brightening
Soft Cream
HIBISCUS
Some hibiscus suppliers,
through their own
studies, have shown that
the bloom’s protein
extracts can “redensify
the dermis to smooth
and lift,” says
Wilson. Other, more
impartial research
has shown that the
known antioxidant
properties of hibiscus
teas also apply to
the flower when it’s
used in skin care.
FOUND IN: Éminence
Hibiscus Ultra
Lift Eye Cream
JASMINE
This tropical white
flower has the potential
to hydrate, reduce
redness, and soothe.
According to Wilson,
however, its pungent
smell often leads
to it being diluted in
skin-care formulas.
Otherwise, the scent
can be too hard to
balance out.
FOUND (AT A NICE
CONCENTRATION) IN:
Clark’s Botanicals
Smoothing
Marine Cream
78 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2019
PEONIES
The fluffy pink flowers
spend much of their
time at weddings
but have also been
widely studied in labs.
“Traditionally they
were cooked in water
to make antioxidant
tinctures and teas.
Now we have data
to show they’re
anti-inflammatory,
antioxidant, and may
even reduce dark
spots when applied
topically,” says Wilson.
FOUND IN: Fresh Peony
Brightening Night
Treatment Mask WILL ANDERSON
(PROP STYLIST: GÖZDE EKER)