D4| Saturday/Sunday, August 17 - 18, 2019 ** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL.**
JAMES BEARD AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANTS line cobblestone streets, brewer-
ies turn out serious suds and the lobster roll is in a constant state of upscale rein-
vention. Portland, Maine, is a food-lover’s fantasyland, but the culture goes well be-
yond the plate. Works by Renoir, Homer and Picasso hang at the Portland Museum
of Art, and Mother Nature puts on an all-seasons show. Set on the water—the Casco
Bay islands make for picturesque day trips—the former capital of the state is rife
with trails winding through its parks and promenades. Visitors are prone to mid-
hike epiphanies: Why not live here? Soon after novelist Richard Russo and his wife,
Barbara, moved to town, daughters Kate and Emily followed. Emily opened PRINT, a
bookstore in artsy Munjoy Hill. “Our roots in Portland are very deep,” said Mr.
Russo, whose new book, “Chances Are...” was written there. “I can’t think what
would get us out of here now.” —Margot DoughertyTHE FASHION
DESIGNER
Jill McGowan
Owner, Jill McGowan
women’s clothing
store
THE WRITER
Richard Russo
Pulitzer-prize winning
author. His latest
novel, ‘Chances Are...’
came out last month.THE CHEFS
Ilma Lopez
and Damian
Sansonetti
Owners of Piccolo
and ChavalPortland
This Maine seaport delivers all the ingredients for a late-
summer escape—and then someTHE ARTIST
Will Sears
Art Director, Oxbow
Brewing Co.; Founder
Better Letter Hand
Painted SignsSHELL GAME /Scales [2] There’s a lovely
bar with a trough that runs down the length.
If you order a dozen oysters they put ice into
the groove and shuck them in front of you.
68 Commercial St., scalesrestaurant.comPICTURE THIS /Indigo Arts Alliance
[5] The gallery specializes in African-Ameri-
can art from all over the region. It’s a good
place to duck into. 60 Cove St., indigoartsal-
liance.meSLEEP ON IT /The PressThis hotel is in the
old Portland Press Herald building, right in
the center of town. There’s a really good res-
taurant and two lively bars. 119 Exchange St.,
thepresshotel.comAW-SHUCKS /The ShopThey’ll sell you oys-
ters for $1.50 a pop, about $1.50 less than
elsewhere. You can sit at a table, inside or
outside, with a carafe of Prosecco. 123
Washington Ave., portland.island-
creekoysters.comPIE CHART /TandemI gave up coffee, but
their cheddar-jalapeño biscuit always gets
me, and an ever-rotating selection of pies is
baked there and served warm. 742 Congress
St., tandemcoffee.comCLAW DADDY /EventideThe lobster roll is
served on a steamed bun with brown butter.
It’s like a little heavenly pillow in your mouth.
86 Middle St., eventideoysterco.comFERRY LAND /Casco Bay islands [3] Tour
all eight inhabited islands on the ferry, or
stop at Peaks Island and rent a bike. On
Great Diamond there’s a cool little bar-res-
taurant, Crown Jewel. Or just do a sunset
cruise. 56 Commercial St., cascobaylines.comDATE-NIGHT BITES /Drifter’s Wife [1] The
food is Mediterranean-influenced, using
whatever is local and good. Across the street,
Minato has amazing uni spoons and chicken
wings. 59 Washington Ave., drifterswife.com,
54 Washington Ave.. izakayominato.comAFTER HOURS /Ruski’sThis local hangout
in the West End is open from 7 a.m. to 1 a.m.
No-fuss cocktails, good cold beer and good
company. They have a decent breakfast, so
you can work off the hangover from the
night before. The staff is as sweet as candy.
212 Danforth St.HOP TO IT /GoodfireThis brewery does
IPAs, double IPAs, killer pilsners and great
stouts and kolsches. We’re always impressed
when they come by with new beers for us to
taste. 219 Anderson St., goodfirebrewing.comBY HAND /More & CoThey have really nice
ceramics and homewares. The shop moved
to Yarmouth, about 15 minutes out of Port-
land, and the new store has a cafe that
serves coffee, beer, wine and cheese. 106
Lafayette St., alittlemorelikethis.comGIFT ME UP /AbacusYou can find earrings,
clocks, all kinds of art and beautiful metal-
work. 44 Exchange St., abacusgallery.comPLUS, DON'T MISS...Portland Trading Company For the coolest of everything, from key chains and cologne to men’s and women’s clothes, PTC is ground zero. 83 Market St., portlandtradingco.com /
PRINT: A Bookstore A community hub offering readings with local and visiting authors, it also has signed copies of Richard Russo’s oeuvre. He is co-owner Emily Russo’s dad.
273 Congress St., printbookstore.com. / The Bearded Lady’s Jewel Box Creative cocktails are the immediate draw; the welcoming vibe and delicious snacks at this no-sign spot
conspire to bring folks back. 644 Congress St ./ The Francis The 15-room boutique hotel (formerly a Victorian manse) has a mod/traditional-hybrid feel and a spa. 747 Congress
St., thefrancismaine.com Judith[6] This light-filled boutique stocks cultish modern labels, including Rachel Comey and Nomia. 131 Middle St., shopjudith.comTAKE A HIKE /Mackworth Island [4] Once
owned by Governor Percival Baxter, who do-
nated acres of land to the state, the island is
rimmed by a 1¼-trail. mainetrailfinder.com
BYO BITTE /Schulte & HerrThey serve clas-
sic German food, like spaetzle with caramel-
ized onion and cheese, a fresh cucumber
salad and potato pancakes with lox. Bring
your own wine or beer. 349 Cumberland Ave.,
schulteundherr.wordpress.com
LITTLE SOMETHINGS /Folly 101You can
find anything: kitchenware, books, gadgets,
hats, jewelry, candles and scarfs. The
owner has an amazing eye, and her prices
are really good. 101 Exchange St.,
207-773-5227
THROWBACK THURSDAYS /Topofthe
EastIt’s an old-school, get-a-bourbon kind of
place at the top of the Westin. There are big
windows that wrap around and cushy ban-
quettes. 157 High St., thetopoftheeast.com
JOURNAL CONCIERGE / AN INSIDER'S GUIDE GRETA RYBUS FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL; FREE VECTOR MAPS
ADVENTURE & TRAVEL
MAINE ATTRACTIONS Clockwise from top: Drifter’s Wife restaurant; bluefin tuna crudo at Scales; one of the ferries headed to Peaks Island; Mackworth Island Trail; co-founder Marcia Minter
and artist Daniel Minter at Indigo Arts Alliance; Judith boutique up the hill from Portland’s Old Port.
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