Saturday Magazine – August 10, 2019

the top – make it all worthwhile. At

one point we were looking down

on an eagle that was riding the

thermals rising from the sea. The

village was founded in the 15th

century by people leaving the

coast to flee Saracen invaders.

It was a hard place to live, and

during the 17th and 18th

centuries they began to

return to the coast. The last

inhabitant left in 1914.

It’s impossible to talk

about Corsica without

getting on to the subject of

food. The apartments at Le

Home have a kitchenette, where we

breakfasted on wonderful pastries, fresh local

fruit and coffee, but the choice of restaurants in

the Calvi area is fantastic and we didn’t hold

back. The Genoese heritage is reflected in

sensational pizzas, but local specialities include

suckling pig, octopus, lamb and wild boar. Our

favourite restaurant was U Fanale, with its twists

on traditional Corsican dishes, presented

beautifully and enhanced by a stunning sunset.

Driving around the region, we noticed posters

advertising ‘polyphonies Corses’ – traditional

Corsican polyphonic singing – adorning every

other lamp-post. To get a feel for the soul of

Corsica, its rebellious identity, its bloody

history of maquisards and vendettas, attending

one of these concerts is a must. We saw a group

called I Campagnoli (the countrymen) in the

cathedral and were deeply moved by the

traditional songs of love and loss, delivered

in spine-tingling close harmonies.

L’Isle de Beauté (the island of beauty), as

Corsica is known in French, is a spellbinding

place that really gets under your skin. I can’t

wait to go back.

SATURDAY MAGAZINE 67

there is a good selection of marine life to take
in. Renting a SUP (stand-up paddleboard) is
a great way to explore the stunning coastline.
If you don’t mind driving on winding
mountain roads, this part of the island offers
much to explore, including vineyards – rosé is
a speciality and the good stuff never leaves the

island – and scenic mountain villages. We took
a route inland following the Fangu river and
found a spectacular spot to spend a few hours
sunbathing and swimming in the river’s pools
and gentle rapids. The
water was surprisingly
warm, especially
considering we were
looking up at the snowy

peaks that were the
source of the river.
Slightly closer to
home, we walked up to
the deserted mountain
village of Occi. The
path from Lumio is steep
and takes around 20
minutes, but the scent

of wild flowers and
maquis herbs – and the
incredible views from

TRAVEL

BARGAIN BREAKS

Holiday in mainland France

Paris

WHY: Catch the

rays in Luxembourg

Gardens, see a show

at the Moulin Rouge

and peek inside the

Château de Versailles

• the most luxurious
  pad in the city.
  C’est magnifique.
  HOW: Kirker (020 7593 2283, kirker
  holidays.com) is offering three nights’ B&B
  at the four-star Le Sénat boutique hotel
  from £597pp, including Eurostar, transfers,
  a two-day museum pass and Kirker guide
  notes and concierge, until September 2.

Lyon

WHY: Turn back the

clock in this historic

city. Explore Roman

ruins and medieval

and Renaissance

architecture and enjoy

a five-star dinner at

Bouchon Tupin.

HOW: TopCashback (topcashback.co.uk)

has seven nights at the four-star OKKO

Hotels Lyon Pont Lafayette on a B&B

basis from £391.82 when booking

through Expedia, based on two adults

sharing, with return flights departing from

Heathrow on August 20.

Brittany

WHY: Home of the

perfect crêpe, this

region is famous for

its family friendly

resorts, beautiful

beaches, cliff-top

trails and striking

medieval towns.

HOW: Al Fresco Holidays (0161 332 8900,

alfresco-holidays.com) has seven nights

at Domaine de Ker Ys on a self-catering

basis, arriving on August 24 for a total of

£655, based on a family of up to six sharing

a two-bedroom Puccini Riviera mobile

home. Flights not included.

WAY TO GO

Corsican Places is the

island specialist with

a wide collection of

self-catering and hotel-

based holidays throughout

Corsica. The tour operator

has seven-night packages

staying at Le Home

apartments from £499pp,

including flights and

transfers. To book,

visit corsica.co.uk or

call 01489 866961.

Scandola Nature

Reserve

The Fangu river ‘The colour

and clarity

of the water

wouldn’t be

out of place in

the Maldives’

ITALY

Corsica