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BRIAN DUFFY
happening on the American front,
as it was in music, and that cultural
infl uence came across the ocean.
They were infl uenced by all those
pioneering American photographers
and wanted to create a new look.’
Chris Duff y explains, ‘Out of the
’50s you got a very sort of stilted
vision, particularly in fashion when
the girls were like mannequins and
it was the fi rst time [that changed].
Technology plays its part here
- 35mm started becoming more
readily available, from rangefi nders
to SLRs, and it created more fl uidity
so they [Duff y, Bailey and Donovan]
injected that energy into fashion.
They created a sense of energy with
the models and brought a new look
to fa shion.’Cameras and lenses
Despite Duff y being highly
technical in his approach to
photography – including building
his own system based around
a 6x9in Arca Swiss camera body- this was only a means to an end.
Chris Duff y explains, ‘He was more
interested in that Cartier-Bresson
element of the moment in time.’
He adds, ‘He had a whole set
of about 12 lenses, some of them
he’d broken off Bakelite cameras
and re-fi xed on to mounts. He
really understood lenses; all
Right: John Lennon,
19 6 5‘They created a sense
of energy and brought
a new look to fashion’
Right: Joanna
Lumley and son
Jamie, 1968