GQ India – August 2019

I

n a city of seasoned diners

who are spoilt for choice, it

takes a lot to create a stir.

And yet, Perbacco (Italian

for “my word”), the newest

restaurant at The Lodhi in Delhi,

is doing just that. Having sparked

an onslaught of enquiries since

its launch announcement in 2018,

the restaurant’s finally opening

doors this month. I understand

the reason behind the buzz when

I meet Chef Adriano Baldassarre

in his kitchen. He’s prepping for

lunch, stirring a pot of bubbling

tomatoes into a puree and

reminiscing about how the colours

remind him of the fiery escargot

his mother made for him as a child.

“Watching her cook was what

drew me in,” he smiles. “She gave

me a sense of tradition, which

has been integral to my cooking. I

got my technique from [celebrity

chef] Giorgio [Locatelli], though.

He taught me how to handle food,

respect ingredients.”

It was Locatelli who really

started his career. He took the

then-15-year-old Baldassarre

AUGUST 2019 — 55

GoodLife

THE EDITED BY SAUMYAA VOHRA

Roasted Duck with

Carrot, Hazelnut and

Mandarin Essence

Chef Adriano Baldassarre

WORDS: SAUMYAA VOHRA

Michelin star chef Adriano Baldassarre’s mission at Perbacco at

The Lodhi is simple: To bring back the lost flavours of Italian food

As The

Romans Do