56GOODLIFE
from sous-ing at the local kitchens in his
hometown of Abruzzo, and brought him to
London to be a chef de partie (station chef)
at his Michelin-starred Zafferano. That
put Baldassarre’s career on the fast track,
with him assuming posts of increasing
responsibility at myriad starred restaurants- until he earned his own star at age 30
(becoming one of the youngest ever to do so)
in 2007, for Tordomatto in Rome.
Tordomatto and Perbacco are worlds
apart: The former’s vibe is minimal,
while the latter is the opposite. The Delhi
restaurant is bright, vibrant, colourful,
with a mad medley of Murano-esque
glass poppies on the ceiling, kaleidoscopic
murals of Sicily and an upbeat Italian pop
soundtrack. Yet to come are a gelato counter
and wine cellar for a family-friendly, casual
dining space.
For his return to India – he was the Head
Chef at Vetro (at The Oberoi, Mumbai)
from 2014 to 2016 – Baldassarre chose to
abandon his fusion MO, and stay true to his
roots. And so the menu is all about umami
(that prizes savoury over the other four
basic tastes), with handpicked, traditional
dishes from various regions of Italy.
As I take a sip of his onion soup, with
its sweet saffron undertones, the gamble
Baldassarre’s taking becomes apparent.
From the mozzarella-anchovy aperitivo
to his beetroot tartare (which makes
a pedestrian ingredient surprisingly
delectable), everything is infused with
subtle, nuanced flavours.
It’s a tectonic shift from Tordomatto, with
its riotously experimental food. The reason
for it, he says, is he’s cooking away from
home. “When you’re taking your cuisine out
into the world, you must translate it purely.
I can’t dilute it with experimentation.”
Today’s diners also have more specific
preferences. Which is why Perbacco
offers gluten-free pasta, express work
lunches and vegetarian versions of its
meat-based dishes.
As I spear a piece of ricotta and spinach
ravioli in a light sage butter sauce,
Baldassarre elaborates on the muted
palate he’s chosen. “In true-blue Italian
cooking, we focus on a few, soft flavours –
uncluttered by excess. The key ingredients,
truffles, tomatoes, garlic, are given the
chance to shine.”
It’s curious how someone so young is
this old-school about authenticity – so
much so that almost all of Perbacco’s key
ingredients are flown in from Italy (“How
could I imagine making carbonara without
my truffles?”). This philosophy extends to
the wines in the cellar too, which you’re free
to peruse and choose a bottle from. “I always
gravitate towards the Barolo. It pairs well
with everything, including this,” he smiles,
applying gold foil atop some risotto.
The finale to our afternoon is a surreal
tiramisu. The coffee takes centre stage,
while the mascarpone and dusted cocoa
are a great supporting cast. Like the rest of
Baldassarre’s menu, it’s brilliant because of- not despite – how simple it is.
“IN TRUE-BLUE
ITALIAN COOKING,
WE FOCUS ON
A FE W, SOFT
FLAVOURS,
UNCLUTTERED
BY EXCESS”
(From top)
Perbacco’s central
dining area;
Scallops Carpione,
Zucchini, Garlic
and VinegarWORDS: SAUMYAA VOHRA