This versatile wunderkind can take on tasks that usually
require multiple appliances—pressure-cooking, steaming,
sautéing, and slow-cooking. One-pot meals or stews that
would typically take half a day to cook can be done in half
the time with the press of a button.Our highest scorer, this Breville
is tops in pressure-cooking, rice-
cooking, and steaming, and
it’s the only one we’ve tested
that earns an Excellent rating
for slow-cooking. The beef in
our stew turned out perfectly
tender in 5 hours; chili took 7. A
big plus for veggie lovers: This
cooker doesn’t use pressure for
steaming, so vegetables come
out al dente, not mushy.BREVILLE FAST SLOW PRO
BPR700BSS
$250
81This 6-quart model is rated
Excellent for pressure-cooking
and Very Good for making rice.
It’s not as good when it comes
to steaming, though, earning
a Fair rating for producing
broccoli and baby carrots that
were on the too-soft side. It’s
middle-of-the-road when it
comes to slow-cooking, worth
noting if you’re hoping to ditch
a stand-alone slow cooker.INSTANT POT DUO60 7-IN-1
$100
75Ninja revolutionized the multi-
cooker by adding a crisping
lid that can broil food after
pressure-cooking for a crackling
finish. Our testers tried it with
a whole chicken and the skin
crisped up nicely. You can also
use the lid to bake cookies and
air-fry food. It earns an Excellent
rating for pressure-cooking,
making rice, and sautéing, and
scores a Very Good rating for
slow-cooking and steaming. It's
bigger than most models, and
the crisping lid can't be removed.NINJA FOODI OP302
$230
79Because it does so many cooking
duties, this is the ultimate all-in-one
appliance.
Models with a pressure-cook
mode prepare meats and beans in
far less time than conventional
cooking methods.
It's hands-off cooking; no need to
stand by a stove to prepare your meal.
It won’t heat up the entire kitchen
like your oven can.
Tons of recipes are available, from
the book included in the packaging
to various food websites and multi-
cooker cookbooks.
You’ll need a fair amount of counter and
storage space. Of the models we tested,
the average size was 12”Hx15”Wx14”D.You have to factor in an extra
10 to 15 minutes for the appliance
to come to pressure, and then
again to release it.There’s a learning curve to adjust
to the different cooking methods.Multi-cookers have opaque lids that lock
during pressure-cooking, so you can’t check
on food without stopping the appliance
and waiting for the pressure to release.Usually the pots are round, so bigger
cuts of meat may not fit.WHAT TO COOK:
STEW / STEAMED
VEGETABLES / SOUP /
YOGURT / RISOTTO / RIBS
/ OATMEAL / CHEESECAKE
/ CHILI / EGGSWHAT IT CAN DO:
ROAST / STEW / BAKE /
SLOW-COOK / SAUTÉ /
PRESSURE-COOK /
AIR-FRY / REHEAT /
SOUS VIDEDon’t overfill the pot
with liquid, especially
when pressure-cooking.
Excess liquid can spray
out of the vent valve.
Grains, beans, and
other dried foods expand
as they cook, so don’t
go beyond the pot’s
halfway point.
The pressure cooker
uses moist heat, so
brown or sear meat
and vegetables before
pressure-cooking to add
depth of flavor.
In order to build
pressure, the appliance
needs a minimum amount
of liquid in the pot.
Check your manual for
the correct amount.
But don’t overdo it,
because the sealed lid
prevents liquids from
evaporating like they do
in conventional cooking.Milk and other creamy
dairy products can scald
or curdle under pressure.
So add them after the
pressure-cooking process
is done.The lid’s silicone seal
can retain food odors.
If you think that might
bother you, consider
getting a second ring
just for sweets. Or banish
lingering smells with a
3-minute vinegar soak
before washing.All of the models we
tested have dishwasher-
safe inserts—but they
take up a huge amount
of room in the lower rack.
Some models also have
dishwasher-safe lids; see
our multi-cooker ratings,
on page 45.PROS CONSTIPS FROM OUR EXPERTSSEPTEMBER 2019 CR.ORG 39