Wine Spectator – September 30, 2019

(avery) #1

89 Dierberg Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley
Dierberg Vineyard 2016 $44 Lithe, with rich dried
meat notes to the cherry tart and raspberry coulis flavors.
Smoke and spice details show on the minerally finish.
Drink now through 2021. 1,700 cases made.—K.M.


89 Etude Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley North
Canyon Vineyard 2016 $45 Juicy, with vibrant cherry
and raspberry flavors, flanked by notes of flint and dried
sage. The fresh, crunchy finish offers minerally hints.
Drink now through 2021. 1,549 cases made.—K.M.


89 Foley Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Bar Lazy S
Ranch 2016 $55 Offers a minty aroma, with ripe,
dense flavors of kirsch and dark cherry that are loaded
with Asian spice notes. Chocolate and cream details
emerge on the extracted finish, showing peppery hints.
Drink now through 2022. 682 cases made.—K.M.


89 Marimar Estate Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
Mas Cavalls Doña Margarita Vineyard 2015 $47
Savory, featuring well-focused flavors of dried red currant,
sage and berry, framed by cigar box accents. Firm tannins
show on the finish, with smoky notes. Drink now through



  1. 400 cases made.—K.M.


89 Scherrer Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
2014 $50 Loamy and mocha notes accent the ripe
dark cherry and roasted plum flavors. Dried meat details
show on the firmly tannic finish. Drink now through 2023.
1,190 cases made.—K.M.


88 Ampelos Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills 2017 $25
Cedar and spice hints accent the dried cherry, currant and
berry flavors. Tangerine details linger on the finish, with
intense hot stone notes. Drink now through 2022. 427
cases made.—K.M.


88 Ron Rubin Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
2017 $25 This features vibrant savoriness to the dried
cherry, mulberry and roasted plum flavors. Firm tannins
show on the finish, with chocolate nib accents. Drink
now through 2022. 3,315 cases made.—K.M.


88 Santa Barbara Winery Pinot Noir Sta. Rita
Hills 2015 $25 Graphite and mineral hints accent the
dark plum and dried currant flavors. Smoky notes and
chocolate nib details emerge on the finish, with firm tan-
nins. Drink now through 2021. 2,072 cases made.—K.M.


86 Kirkland Signature Pinot Noir Napa Valley
Carneros 2017 $10 Cranberry and pomegranate fla-
vors are supported by crisp acidity in this taut style. Grain
and spice notes show on the finish. Drink now. 31,990
cases made.—K.M.


85 Alloy Wine Works Pinot Noir Central Coast
NV $7/375ml Cedary hints accent the dried red fruit
flavors. Offers a clean finish, with notes of smoke and
slightly charred underbrush. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink
now. 2,200 cases made.—K.M.


CALIFORNIA


Syrah & Blends


93 Keller Rôtie Sonoma Coast 2015 $55
Vibrant and gracefully complex, with multilayered black
raspberry, smoky meat and savory bay leaf accents that
build energy toward polished tannins. Syrah and Viognier.
Drink now through 2026. 275 cases made.—T.F.


92 Keplinger Hangman’s Carneros 2016 $75
Dense and slightly tight right now, this offers expressive
rose petal, black cherry and bacon fat accents that build
richness toward broad-shouldered tannins. Syrah and
Viognier. Drink now through 2027. 140 cases made.—T.F.


92 Myriad Syrah Petaluma Gap Sangiacomo
Vineyard 2016 $46 Rich and plump, offering appeal-
ing black raspberry, dried orange and ginger flavors, plus
hints of cracked pepper. Builds toward fine-grained tan-
nins. Drink now through 2026. 225 cases made.—T.F.


91 Keplinger Syrah Sonoma Coast Fuego Y Mar
2016 $75 Trim and compact, with currant, smoky meat
and white pepper flavors that persist toward broad tan-
nins. Best from 2021 through 2026. 130 cases made.—T.F.
91 Quivet Cellars Syrah Carneros Las Madres
Vineyard Hulda Block 2016 $45 Graceful and sleek,
with elegantly layered and vibrant raspberry, smoked pep-
per and sweet anise flavors that glide on the long finish.
Drink now through 2025. 225 cases made.—T.F.
91 Unti Syrah Dry Creek Valley Benchland 2016
$55 Dense and brooding, with blueberry and raspberry
flavors, laced with smoky bacon and bitter chocolate
notes. Finishes with well-groomed tannins. Best after


  1. 280 cases made.—T.F.
    90 Quivet Cellars Syrah Napa Valley Kenefick
    Ranch 2016 $45 Plump, loaded with appealing fruit,
    this offers boysenberry, licorice and smoky pepper flavors
    that finish with refined tannins. Drink now through 2026.
    250 cases made.—T.F.


CALIFORNIA
Zinfandel

92 Seghesio Zinfandel Alexander Valley Home
Ranch 2016 $60 Plush, with jammy blackberry, smoky
anise and pepper flavors that fan out on the long finish.
Drink now through 2025. 2,408 cases made.—T.F.
91 Mount Peak Zinfandel Sonoma County Rat-
tlesnake 2016 $48 Gutsy yet polished, with deep
blackberry, espresso and smoky cracked pepper flavors that
take on richness on the finish. Drink now through 2026.
4,200 cases made.—T.F.
88 Bogle Zinfandel California Old Vine 2016
$12 See Best Values, page 84.
88 Sobon Estate Zinfandel Amador County
Rocky Top 2017 $18 Jammy and a touch sweet, with
zesty black raspberry, sage and green peppercorn notes.
Drink now. 5,155 cases made.—T.F.
88 Terra d’Oro Zinfandel Amador County Home
Vineyard 2017 $25 A perky red, with medium-bodied
wild berry, underbrush and licorice flavors. Drink now
through 2022. 1,000 cases made.—T.F.
87 Sobon Estate Zinfandel Fiddletown 2017
$22 Expressive black cherry and rose petal aromas open
to plump plum, licorice and underbrush accents that take
on rustic tannins on the finish. Best after 2019. 2,900
cases made.—T.F.

CALIFORNIA
Other

94 Keplinger Lithic Amador County 2016 $75
Distinctive and expressive, with floral orange zest, dried
cherry, cured meat and cracked pepper flavors that take
on structure toward big but polished tannins. Hands off
for now. Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah. Best from 2020
through 2027. 280 cases made.—T.F.
93 Keplinger El Diablo Russian River Valley
2016 $75 Grace meets backbone here, with compel-
ling blackberry, licorice and smoky cinnamon flavors that
build power on the finish. Grenache and Syrah. Drink
now through 2027. 112 cases made.—T.F.

93 Keplinger SUMŌ Amador County 2016 $75
Dark and brooding, with a polished yet muscular back-
bone, wrapped in rich and layered blackberry and plum
flavors, accented by white pepper, toasted sage and pep-
pered beef hints. Petite Sirah, Syrah and Viognier. Best
from 2021 through 2027. 295 cases made.—T.F.
93 Unti Cuvée Foudre Dry Creek Valley 2016
$55 California meets Old World, with a multifaceted
blend that blooms along the way, offering refined but com-
pelling dried cherry, smoked meat and peppered anise

flavors that take on richness toward fine-grained tannins.
Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Drink now through


  1. 263 cases made.—T.F.
    92 Domaine Chandon Rosé Carneros étoile NV
    $55 Graceful and refined, with expressive notes of rose
    petal, fresh ginger, spiced cinnamon and strawberry that
    dance lithely on a lingering finish. Drink now. 3,500 cases
    made.—T.F.
    92 Iron Horse Brut Green Valley of Russian River
    Valley X 2014 $54 Steely and elegantly refined, with
    a vibrant beam of acidity that tightly focuses the lemon,
    green apple and mineral accents that dance along the fin-
    ish. Drink now through 2020. 800 cases made.—T.F.


92 J Brut Rosé Russian River Valley 2014 $65
Sleek and steely, yet polished, with elegantly layered straw-
berry and peach flavors, laced with gingerbread and fresh
violet notes. Drink now. 500 cases made.—T.F.
92 Keplinger Grenache Russian River Valley
Basilisk 2016 $75 Structured and polished, with ex-
pressive raspberry, dried orange and smoky spice flavors
that take on richness toward refined tannins. Drink now
through 2025. 180 cases made.—T.F.
92 Turley Petite Syrah Howell Mountain Rattle-
snake Ridge 2017 $44 Deeply structured and loaded
with personality, offering blueberry and blackberry flavors,
laced with dried orange, sandalwood and pepper notes
that persist toward burly tannins. Best from 2021 through


  1. 414 cases made.—T.F.
    91 Unti Grenache Dry Creek Valley 2015 $30
    Silky and plump, with polished fruit, offering zesty cherry,
    cinnamon and smoky anise flavors that glide on a long
    finish. Drink now through 2025. 488 cases made.—T.F.
    90 Tablas Creek Vermentino Adelaida District
    2018 $27 Orange blossom and matcha green tea notes
    are vibrant and precise, with lime zest, grapefruit and sub-
    tle almond skin flavors on the finish, revealing a lovely
    thread of minerality and crisp acidity. Drink now. 1,140
    cases made.—M.W.
    89 Maddalena Rosé Paso Robles 2018 $24 A
    crisp and pretty blush, with lively raspberry and smoked
    pepper flavors. Graciano, Syrah, Primitivo, Grenache and
    Grenache Blanc. Drink now. 4,000 cases made.—T.F.
    89 Pedroncelli Rosé Dry Signature Selection
    Dry Creek Valley 2018 $17 Zesty and fun to drink,
    with lively cherry, spice and strawberry flavors. Zinfandel.
    Drink now. 3,000 cases made.—T.F.
    88 Chateau Souverain Sauvignon Blanc Califor-
    nia Invitation 2017 $10 See Best Values, page 84.
    88 Hawley Zinfandel Alexander Valley Rosé
    2018 $25 Delicate and floral, with pretty watermelon
    and orange zest flavors. Drink now. 480 cases made.—T.F.
    88 Murrieta’s Well The Whip Livermore Valley
    2017 $26 Fragrant, smooth and appealing, with orange
    sherbet, honeysuckle, ripe melon and marmalade notes
    on a lush, refreshing frame. A note of lime zest gains mo-
    mentum on the finish. Sauvignon Blanc blend. Drink
    now. 6,750 cases made.—M.W.
    87 Three Wine Company Rosé Old Vines Contra
    Costa County 2018 $18 Easygoing, with pretty rasp-
    berry and spice flavors. Zinfandel, Carignane and Mataro.
    Drink now. 728 cases made.—T.F.
    87 Wine Cube Rosé California 2017 $18/3L
    Easygoing, with zesty watermelon and strawberry flavors.
    Merlot, Syrah, Gewürztraminer, Moscato and Viognier.
    Sold as a 3L box. Drink now. 27,000 cases made.—T.F.
    85 Oak Grove Rosé California Winemaker’s
    Family Reserve 2018 $9 A snappy quaff, with easy-
    going strawberry and watermelon flavors. Pinot Grigio
    and Barbera. Drink now. 2,000 cases made.—T.F.


New Releases: California

104 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2019

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