Wine Spectator – September 30, 2019

SEPT. 30, 2019 • WINE SPECTATOR 43

TIM

CA

RL

cheese,” Adams says. Likewise, when Achadinha started making

cheese in 2001, Donna Pacheco chose Portuguese styles that mixed

cow’s and goat’s milk. Ramini opted for mozzarella di bufala when

it began cheesemaking in 2011, and Nicasio Valley focused on the

unique styles of Maggia Valley in the Italian part of Switzerland.

Bellwether Farms, founded by former nurse Cindy Callahan in

1986, pioneered ewe’s milk cheese in California with San Andreas,

a remarkably true version of Italy’s pecorino Toscano. Its fresh prod-

ucts include delectable basket ricotta and sheep’s milk yogurt. (The

farm, south of Sebastopol, does not welcome visitors.)

Places you can visit range from small operations that offer weekly

tours to shops where you can taste before buying (often for less than

retail prices outside the region), including Cowgirl Creamery’s bus-

tling takeout café and grocery store. Point Reyes Farmstead’s edu-

cation and event space, the Fork, could have been transplanted

from a fancy North Coast winery, like the ones passed en route. Its

busy schedule offers reservation-only tours, culinary classes, focused

tastings and special dinners by local chefs.

The following pages identify worthy farms and creameries to

visit, pinpointing what makes their cheeses special. We also sug-

gest places to eat and sleep, whether you’re there for the wine, the

cheese, the oysters or all of the above.

COASTSIDE MARIN

T

omales Bay defines the geography of this bucolic region.

The long, narrow inlet stretches for 20 miles behind a low

ridge that separates it from the Pacific Ocean. In winter

and early spring, the slopes shine green. When summer fogs lift,

the views are stunning.

Visitors flock to Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, the

town at the south end, to see how the distinctively funky triple-

cream Red Hawk is made. Its flavor comes from natural bacteria

in the creamery’s air, which appeared to spoil a batch of the com-

pany’s original soft-rind cheese, Mt. Tam, until they tasted it, and

wow! Inspired by classic French triple-cream, both cheeses have a

silky texture that relies on Dutch techniques introduced by Cow-

girl’s original cheese consultant.

“The method requires washing of the curds and cooking of the

curds, as with Gouda,” Conley explains. “Standard soft-ripened

cheesemaking while also expanding production and distribution.

Emmi AG, a Swiss company that also owns Redwood Hill and Cy-

press Grove in California, bought Cowgirl Creamery in 2016. Con-

ley and Smith are still in charge of the cheesemaking, which has

moved to a new facility in Petaluma built by Emmi to make all the

cheeses except Red Hawk. If anything, the cheeses are better and

even more consistent. France-based Rians Group purchased Laura

Chenel’s cheese company in 2006 and picked up Marin French

Cheese Co. in 2011.

Meanwhile, independents continue adding to the diversity. Each

new artisan cheesemaker in this region has consciously avoided

going into direct competition with those already there.

With no one else doing it, Wm. Cofield opted for British styles.

“I’m not coming into Sue Conley’s backyard and making soft

Audrey Hitchcock of Ramini

Where to Visit

(^1) Cowgirl Creamery
Tomales Bay Foods, 80 Fourth St.,
Point Reyes Station Telephone
(415) 663-9335 Website
cowgirlcreamery.com
(^2) Nicasio Valley
Cheese Company
5300 Nicasio Valley Road, Nicasio
Telephone (415) 662-6200 Website
nicasiocheese.com
(^3) Point Reyes Farmstead
Cheese Company
14700 Shoreline Highway, Point Reyes
Station Telephone (800) 591-
6878 Website pointreyescheese.com
(^4) Ramini Mozzarella
Ranch
175 Gericke Road, Tomales
Telephone (415) 690-6633
Website raminimozzarella.com
(^5) Tomales Farmstead
Creamery
Toluma Farms, 5488 Middle Road,
Petaluma Telephone (707) 878-
2041 Website tolumafarms.com
Where to Eat
The Boat Oyster Bar
20215 Shoreline Highway,
Marshall Telephone (415) 663-
9218 Website hogislandoysters.com
Cowgirl Cantina
80 Fourth St., Point Reyes
Station Telephone (415) 663-
9335 Website cowgirlcreamery.com
Tony’s Seafood
18863 Shoreline Highway,
Marshall Telephone (415) 663-
1107 Website tonysseafood
restaurant.com
Where to Stay
Nick’s Cove
23240 Highway 1, Marshall
Telephone (415) 663-1033 Website
nickscove.com Cottages 12
Award of Excellence
Point Reyes Vineyard
Inn & Winery
12700 Shoreline Highway, Point
Reyes Station Telephone (415) 663-
1552 Website ptreyesvineyard
inn.com Rooms 3
MUST-SEE MARIN