COVER STORY
36 Cheese Tour U.S.A. From verdant pastures to working
family farms to charming storefronts selling artisanal delicacies,
America’s cheese landscape is diverse, delectable and well worth
exploring. In this issue, we highlight three regions celebrated for
outstanding cheese, with recommendations on where to visit,
eat and stay
41 California The Bay Area hot spots of Tomales Bay
and Marin offer access to world-class cheeses, not to mention
oysters and wine, from a range of traditional and trailblazing
producers • Harvey Steiman49 Wisconsin America’s Dairyland leads the nation in
cheese production, from flavor-packed spreads and curds to
specialty treats at the pinnacle of quality • David Gibbons56 Vermont The New England countryside beckons with
idyllic creameries, quaint inns and restaurants at the fore-
front of the farm-to-table movement • Robert TaylorFeatures
TASTING REPORTS
67 Ups and Downs White Burgundy has faced challenging
weather over the past few vintages, but the 2017 and 2016
harvests nevertheless yielded exceptional Chardonnays in
elegant and vibrant styles • Bruce Sanderson74 Against the Odds New Zealand winemakers continue to
buck expectations, going beyond their country’s signature
Sauvignon Blancs to deliver a host of distinctive reds and whites
across the flavor spectrum • MaryAnn WorobiecFROMLEFT:NAT^ ANDCODYGANTZ;^
DAVIDNEVALA;^ O
LIVERPARINI41Cowgirl Creamery in California 49Widmer’s in Wisconsin 56Shelburne Farms in VermontCONTENTS Sept. 30, 2019 Vol. 44, No. 7
Cheese is made in every state, but a few regions have established themselves as
quality leaders. We chose three destinations with the highest concentration of great
cheeses and visitor-friendly venues to make a trip worthwhile.—COVER STORY