Frost threatened again in 2017, as
variable weather posed more challenges
for Chardonnay than Pinot Noir
By Bruce Sanderson
Photographs by Jon Wyand
SEPT. 30, 2019 • WINE SPECTATOR 67TFIA
The village of Rully, in Côte
Chalonnaise, is a source of
value in the often expensive
white Burgundy category.T
hite Burgundy producers have seen their share
of ups and downs the past few vintages. After a
devastating frost in 2016 decimated yields in many
parts of Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montra-
chet and Meursault, the 2017 growing season saw alternating
periods of hot and cold weather that had vintners on their toes
once again. In both vintages, however, the fruit was healthy and
ripe once it was in the winery, and though quantities were low in
’16 and average to slightly below average in ’17, the resulting
quality is outstanding overall—and in some cases superb.
Across the two vintages, the best wines deliver ample peach,
apple, citrus and floral aromas and flavors, often with notes of
mineral and elements of new oak like vanilla and toast. The 2016s
in general are more elegant, while the 2017s offer more flesh, yet
both are supported by plenty of vibrant acidity. I can recall sev-
eral flights where my first impressions of the wines’ openness and
accessibility concealed the degree of their acidic structure.
The top bottlings from both years also exhibit terrific balance,
an attribute that should allow them to age. Though some are en-
joyable out of the gate, many will need a year or two to knit to-
gether and will continue to evolve over the next eight to 12 years,
in some cases a little longer.