Wine Spectator – September 30, 2019

(avery) #1

92 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Côtes du Rhône-
Villages White Inopia 2016 $35 An echo of hazel-
nut weaves in and out, while creamed pear and yellow
apple fruit glides through. Lemon curd, brioche and ver-
bena notes add range on the stylish and lengthy finish.
Grenache Blanc blend. Drink now through 2022. 150
cases imported.—J.M.


91 Michel Gassier Costières de Nîmes White
Nostre Païs 2017 $22 See Smart Buys, page 83.


90 Domaine de Beaurenard Rasteau 2017 $25
Dark raspberry and plum paste notes mix with singed
alder and vanilla flavors. Reveals a solid graphite edge on
the finish. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Drink now
through 2022. 3,600 cases made, 900 cases imported.—J.M.


90 E. Guigal Gigondas 2015 $35 Sleek and open,
featuring racy red currant and damson plum coulis flavors,
inlaid with sandalwood and rooibos tea hints, with chalky
minerality. Balanced and focused. Drink now through



  1. 10,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—J.M.


90 Lavau Rasteau 2016 $22 Features a solid core
of dark plum and cassis fruit, inlaid with singed alder, to-
bacco, chestnut and humus notes. The fruit pushes through
on the finish, keeping this balanced. Drink now through



  1. 5,000 cases made, 3,500 cases imported.—J.M.


90 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Côtes du Rhône-
Villages Inopia 2016 $35 Bright raspberry and cherry
coulis flavors stream through, laced with light floral and
lavender notes. Moderate in scale but seductive in feel.
Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Counoise, Syrah and Cin-
sault. Drink now through 2021. 150 cases imported.—J.M.


87 Château de Campuget Costières de Nîmes
Rosé Tradition 2018 $11 See Best Values, page 84.


86 Famille Lançon Côtes du Rhône Rosé La
Solitude 2018 $13 Light and gliding along, with jas-
mine, white peach and floral notes. Rounded finish. Gre-
nache and Syrah. Drink now. 1,500 cases imported.—J.M.


ITALY


Piedmont / Red


96 Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto
Vigna Le Rocche 2015 $260 See Collectibles,
page 82.


94 Boroli Barolo Brunella 2013 $210 This red
is a tussle between sweet, ripe cherry and strawberry fruit,
tobacco and mineral flavors and dense, aggressive tannins.
Still restrained today, but the long finish of fruit and sa-
vory notes shows potential. Best from 2022 through 2042.
1,000 cases made, 65 cases imported.—B.S.


94 Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto
2015 $250 Dense and firm, this features saltiness un-
derlying the floral, cherry, mineral and tobacco flavors.
A bit standoffish now, but all the components are in the
right proportions. Best from 2023 through 2048. 1,103
cases made, 180 cases imported.—B.S.


94 Castello di Neive Barbaresco Albesani Santo
Stefano 2015 $100 This is elegant yet tightly wound,
exhibiting strawberry, cherry, menthol, tar and woodsy
flavors. Firms up as the dusty tannins rear on the finish,
yet everything is in the right place. Exhibits fine savory
length. Best from 2021 through 2037. 1,000 cases made,
300 cases imported.—B.S.


93 Azelia Barolo 2014 $45
Round, bursting with cherry and
raspberry fruit, this red reveals tar
and underbrush notes. Well-struc-
tured and balanced, ending with a
tobacco-tinged aftertaste. Best from
2021 through 2035. 2,200 cases
made, 770 cases imported.—B.S.


LORENZO SCAVINO
Owner & Winemaker

93 Boroli Barolo Cerequio 2013 $185 Aromas
of toasty oak introduce this smooth red, followed by flavors
of cherry, tar, mineral and tobacco. The tannins are asser-
tive, courtesy of the new wood, so be patient. Finishes long,
with the ripe fruit returning in the end. Best from 2022
through 2038. 500 cases made, 125 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Castello di Neive Barbaresco 2015 $40 A
rich version, this boasts steeped cherry, berry, leather and
tobacco flavors, backed by lively acidity and firm, linear
tannins. Shows intensity midpalate, with an essence of
ripe fruit that persists on the lingering, minerally after-
taste. Best from 2023 through 2040. 5,000 cases made,
1,500 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo Sarmassa 2014
$119 Rich, exhibiting black cherry, plum, spice and tar
flavors, this red features a muscular structure. Balanced
and long, echoing spice and tar notes on the aftertaste.
Best from 2022 through 2036. 3,333 cases made, 300 cases
imported.—B.S.

92 Boroli Barolo 2013 $78 Starts out with floral
and berry aromas and flavors, quickly giving way to tar,
eucalyptus and wild herb elements. Firm and tense, with
dense, dusty tannins shoring up the lingering finish. Hands
off for now. Best from 2023 through 2040. 1,040 cases
made, 112 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Davide Fregonese Barolo Cerretta 2014
$100 This red displays beautiful cherry, plum, eucalyp-
tus and spice flavors, backed by a firm structure. Shows
tension and energy, with a long finish. Best from 2022
through 2035. 366 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.

92 La Ganghija Barbaresco Giacosa 2015 $64
Bright, featuring black currant, cherry and spice flavors,
with licorice, incense and tobacco notes. Tightens up on
the finish, where dusty tannins emerge. Best from 2022
through 2037. 2,400 cases made, 50 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Massimo Rattalino Barolo Trentaquattro34
2014 $69 Agile and resonant, this Barolo delivers
berry, cherry, tobacco and leather flavors on a slim frame.
Harmonious and long, with elements of licorice and tar
flashing on the finish. Drink now through 2032. 800 cases
made, 110 cases imported.—B.S.
91 La Ganghija Barbaresco 2015 $56 Aromas
of cherry and cinnamon lead off, followed by flavors of
strawberry, cherry, menthol and tobacco. Lean and taut,
with fine-grained tannins offering support. Best from 2022
through 2036. 11,000 cases made, 120 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Giacomo Ascheri Nebbiolo Langhe 2016 $25
A vibrant, supple red, this features cherry, raspberry and wild
herb aromas and flavors, with moderate tannins and a juicy
feel overall. Shows the fruity side of Nebbiolo. Drink now
through 2024. 1,541 cases made, 400 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Fratelli Revello Nebbiolo Langhe 2016 $26
Bright and fruity, featuring an element of cherry candy
shaded by floral and underbrush accents. Firm and dry, with
tobacco and mineral hints gracing the finish. Drink now
through 2023. 550 cases made, 300 cases imported.—B.S.

ITALY
Puglia

92 Tormaresca Aglianico Castel del Monte
Bocca di Lupo 2014 $70 An elegant red, featuring
light, taut tannins trimming the ripe cassis and blackberry
fruit, accented by hints of herbes de Provence and smoky
mineral. Creamy and finely knit, with a long, mouthwa-
tering and spicy finish. Drink now through 2029. 225 cases
imported.—A.N.

New Releases: France / Italy

SEPT. 30, 2019 • WINE SPECTATOR 89
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