95 San Giusto a Rentennano Sangiovese
Toscana Percarlo 2015 $140 See Highly Recom-
mended, page 81.
95 Vecchie Terre di Montefili Toscana Anfiteatro
2015 $120 This intense red is showing a lot of oak
now, yet underneath lies ripe cherry, currant, graphite,
underbrush and tobacco flavors. Racy acidity lends defi-
nition, building to a long, resonant finish. Patience is re-
quired. Sangiovese. Best from 2021 through 2036. 433
cases made, 200 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Tolaini Cabernet Sauvignon Toscana Legit
2013 $45 Broad and incisive, delivering black currant,
plum, leather, earth and wild herb flavors. Dense and
beefy, yet with ample fruit for balance, driven by vibrant
acidity. Drink now through 2036. 15,000 cases made,
3,000 cases imported.—B.S.92 Castellare di Castellina
Toscana Poggio ai Merli 2017
$92 Black pepper, graphite and a
well of deep blackberry fruit flavors
announce this concentrated, pow-
erful red. Stays lean and sinewy as
the dense, dusty tannins take hold
of the finish. Needs time, unless you
are grilling a steak or lamb chops
tonight. Merlot. Best from 2020
through 2030. 400 cases made, 100
cases imported.—B.S.PAOLO PANERAI
Owner92 Conte Ferdinando Guicciardini Toscana La
Historia di Italia 2015 $40 A bright, fruity red, with
black cherry, blackberry, earth, tobacco and spice flavors.
Features gripping tannins and lively acidity for support as
the flavors wind down. Best from 2021 through 2035.
1,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Podere Monastero Cabernet Sauvignon-
Merlot Toscana Campanaio 2017 $49 Offers violet,
black currant, blackberry and blueberry fruit. Spicy oak
adds another dimension, while a minerally element emerges.
Supple and racy, this finishes with fruit, spice and mineral
notes. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2023
through 2048. 400 cases made, 150 cases imported.—B.S.
92 San Felice Toscana Vigorello 2015 $59 This
is spicy, showing black pepper, saturated black cherry,
plum, earth, iron and tobacco flavors. Dense and opaque,
with a long aftertaste of dark fruit. Pugnitello, Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2021
through 2033. 3,400 cases made, 800 cases imported.—B.S.90 Carnasciale Toscana 2016 $70 Chewy tan-
nins underline this red, featuring black currant, black cherry
and iron flavors. Saturated and tannic now, but this deliv-
ers intensity, freshness and length. Best from 2022 through- 550 cases made, 75 cases imported.—B.S.
89 San Felice Pugnitello Toscana 2015 $59
Dark and brooding, offering plum, blackberry, iron and spice
flavors. Rustic, yet packs fruit and finishes long. Drink now
through 2023. 660 cases made, 140 cases imported.—B.S.
ITALY
Tuscany / Vino Nobile di
Montepulciano93 Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015 $32
Offers complex, ripe plum and blackberry flavors, woodsy
funk and supple tannins, with flashes of leather, mineral
and camphor. More linear on the finish, where earth,
mineral and tobacco notes reign. Drink now through 2033.
9,100 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Le
Caggiole 2015 $100 Bright black cherry, blackberry,
graphite, earth and sweet spice aromas and flavors high-
light this firm yet expressive red. Everything is in the rightplace and lingers with a complex aftertaste. Drink now
through 2033. 500 cases made.—B.S.92 Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015
$30 Opulent, bursting with sweet, ripe plum, black
cherry, iron, earth and tobacco aromas and flavors. Shows
fine balance. Sangiovese blend. Best from 2021 through- 1,500 cases made, 450 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Riserva 2015 $30 Blackberry, plum, coffee, smoke,
iron and tar flavors mingle with the pointed tannins in
this distinctive red. Complex and long, if not quite knit
together today. Best from 2021 through 2033. 12,200 cases
made, 6,400 cases imported.—B.S.
91 La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Vigneto Santa Pia Riserva 2015 $40 Focused and
elegant, this red offers black cherry, blackberry, iron, earth
and spice flavors. Balanced and fresh on the long finish.
Drink now through 2023. 350 cases imported.—B.S.ITALY
Tuscany / Other96 Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 2016 $260
See Collectibles, page 82.
94 Poliziano Maremma Toscana Mandrone di
Lohsa 2016 $52 A broad, deeply colored and complex
red, boasting black currant, plum, cedar, mineral and to-
bacco flavors. Tightly wound yet well-balanced, but needs
time to settle in. Toasted spice notes grace the lingering
aftertaste. Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante, Petit Verdot
and Carignano. Best from 2022 through 2038. 850 cases
made, 60 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Conte Ferdinando Guicciardini Morellino di
Scansano Massi di Mandorlaia I Massi 2016 $22
Vibrant and elegant, featuring black cherry, tar, leather
and iron flavors that come together nicely with the mod-
erately firm structure. Shows a light grain to the tannins
and a hint of spice on the lingering finish. Drink now
through 2024. 5,000 cases made, 700 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Lohsa Morellino di Scansano 2017 $16 A
balanced, harmonious red, boasting black cherry, black
currant, earth and iron flavors. This is rich enough to en-
joy now and firm enough to pair with food. Sangiovese
and Ciliegiolo. Drink now through 2023. 5,000 cases
made, 530 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Renieri Brunello di Montalcino 2014 $75 A
harmonious, accessible red, this exhibits cherry, straw-
berry, leather and iron flavors. Fine tannins and good cut
lend focus and drive the finish. Drink now through 2022.
5,000 cases made, 1,100 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Carpineto Toscana Rosato Dogajolo 2018
$15 This rosé shows intensity and depth, delivering wa-
termelon, white pepper and saline notes. Vibrant, ending
with a mouthwatering impression. Drink now. 7,000 cases
made, 5,000 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Renzo Masi Toscana Rosato Le Bastarde
2018 $10 A juicy, cherry-scented rosé, with light spice
flavors. Dry and balanced, lingering on the finish. Drink
now. 1,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—B.S.87 Rocca di Montegrossi Toscana Rosato 2018
$19 This is juicy, with vibrant acidity, driving the cherry
and berry flavors to a lingering conclusion. Finishes dry.
Drink now. 1,500 cases made, 50 cases imported.—B.S.87 Santa Cristina Toscana Rosato Cipresseto
2018 $14 Dry, offering more cinnamon, earth and min-
eral flavors than cherry fruit. Drink now. 3,000 cases
imported.—B.S.
86 Castello Banfi Toscana White Centine 2018
$12 Peach and apple aromas and flavors show in this
white, with a hint of nuttiness. A good summer sipper.
Chardonnay and Vermentino. Drink now. 15,000 cases
made, 1,500 cases imported.—B.S.New Releases: Italy92 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2019