Australian Stitches – August 2019

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Technically Speaking


Construction Elements –


Patch Pockets


By Alison Wheeler


PatchPockets
Becausepatchpocketsarea featureontheoutsideof
thegarment,careis neededinplacementforthemost
flatteringeffect.Whenusingprintedfabric,matchingthe
print(especiallya plaidorstripe)willoftengivea more
professionalappearancetothegarment.

Tip:Makea templatepatternoftheactualfinishedpocketin tissue
paperandtracematchpointssothatthepocketcanbecuttoassist
in patternmatching.

Anyshapecanbeusedforpatchpocketsandtheuseofa
cardboardtemplatewillassistinpressingtheseamallowances
accurately.Seephoto1.

Interfacingis appliedtothetopedgeofthepocketsoit
willretainitsshape;however,if thefabricis verylightweight,
considerinterfacingthewholepockettogiveit morebody.

Whenstitchingtheupperflapinplace,stitchtowardsthe
foldofthefabriconbothsidesandtrimtheseamallowance
intheflapareaonly.Seephoto2.

Turn the fl ap to the wrong side of the pocket and slip the
cardboard template in place. See photo 3. Press the sides and
bottom of the pocket against the cardboard. To form a mitre
on the corners, fold the corners in and press in place. Then
fold the edge seams in until the mitre folds sit together.
See photos 4 and 5.

If the pocket is to be placed on a curved area of the body,
ie bust or hip position, place the garment and pocket over a
tailor’s ham to build a curve into the pocket. Tack in place
around all the edges and diagonally across. See photo 6.
This will hold the pocket in place for the machine stitching.

There are a number of ways to fi nish the stitching at the top
edge of the pocket. Observation of techniques in ready-made

This series of articles focuses on various areas of garment construction, offering different methods from those
detailed in the pattern guide sheet.

The ability to personalise garments is one of the great benefi ts of being able to sew. Adding in-seam or patch
pockets can provide both functional and decorative elements to many garments.

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Free download pdf