Wanderlust UK – September 2019

(Axel Boer) #1

ISLES OF SCILLY


wanderlust.co.uk September 2019 105

Nikki. “It won’t rot like wood; it’s anti-
slip and should last at least 50 years.”
Nikki was born and bred on the
island but had studied and worked
on the mainland before being drawn
back to settle down here. “More young
people would come back but we need
more housing and more work for
them,” she explained, adding that
most residents normally don’t have
just one job. “People do what they
need to do to survive, so fishermen
may be builders in winter. They’re
used to having several jobs.”
As we reached the deserted curve of
beach at Porth Hellick, Nikki’s love of
the islands shone through. She talked
of snorkelling with rare Atlantic grey
seals, horse riding on the beaches and
hiring a boat and boatman to explore
the myriad small uninhabited islands.


“Theyarerichinhistorybutyou
needsomeonetointerpretthem
foryou,”sheexplained.
Whileundernoillusionsthat
Scillonians–aspeoplefromthe
islandsareknown–needtoworkhard
tomakealiving,Icouldseehowthey
andtheislands’manyvisitorswould
bedrawnback.OneladyImetin
aweavingworkshoponStAgnestold
methatshe’dbeencomingfor 30 years
andwasstillfindingnewthingstodo


  • “Ihateleaving,”shebemoaned.
    Weturnedbacktoabirdhide
    overlookingtheisland’slargestbodyof
    freshwater.Martinsandswallows
    swoopedoveritchasinginsects,while
    aheronsatmotionlessonthefarside.
    Butmoresurprisingwasthesightof
    anexoticvisitor:adark-colouredbird
    withacurvedbeakandaniridescent
    greenishsheentoitswingsasitwaded
    theshallows.“That’saglossyibis,”
    saidNikki.“Wehadsevenhereover
    thewinterfromSouthAfrica.The
    othershavegonebutthisonemust
    havestayedbehind!”
    Justanothervisitorthatcouldn’t
    beartoleavetheislands.


The wild life
(clockwise from this) A grey
Atlantic seal pops up for
a look; a glossy ibis spreads its
wings; one of many tombs on
St Agnes; horse riding on
St Mary’s; keep an eye out for
friendly puins on clear days;
a new boardwalk on St Mary’s
made from recycled plastic;
the ‘big smoke’ of Hugh Town

⊲ Simon Chubb; Lyn Hughes; S Burbridge; http://www.philnicholls.co.uk; Alamy; Mike Harcum

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