112 wanderlust.co.uk September 2019
TEXAS
ARKANSAS
NEWMEXICO
OKLAHOMA
MEXICO
Rio
Gra
nde
Rio
Gra
nde
RedRiver
RedRiver
BigBend
NP
Caprock
Canyons
SP
PaloDuroCanyon
SP
GulfofMexico
Davis
Mountains
Abilene
Amarillo
AUSTIN
Brownsville
CorpusChristi
Lubbock Dallas
ElPaso
FortWorth
Houston
Laredo
Marfa
SanAntonio
Terlingua
Waco
TheAlamo
0 300km
A
fternearly 45
minutesofgently
ascendingthe
LostMineTrail,
Iturnedthecorner
tobegreetedby
thetopographicalgloryofJuniper
Canyon.Thisrockywonder,set
deepinBigBendNationalPark,
soonbecameoneofmyfavourite
viewsinthewholeofTexas.
Layersofmountains–each
aslightlydierentshadeofpastel
colour–stretchedacrossthe
landscapeasfarastheeyecould
see.Spikydesertcactipunctured
thescenetosetthemoodand,
bestofall,therockformation
besidemehappenedtobeshaped
likeachiselledarmchair.Iquickly
settledintomythroneofnature
andsoakeduptheastounding
sceneryfornearlyanhour.
Whatstruckme–beyondthe
magniicentvisualcanvas–was
theutterlackofanyhuman
interference.Therewerenomotor
sounds;thereweren’tanytelephone
lines,planesorscrapsofpaper.
DID YOU KNOW?
In 2012, Big Bend National Park was named an International Dark
Sky Park, and it is said to have the darkest measured skies in the
lower 48 US states, making it perfect for stargazing.
It was highly possible that little had
changed here since my spot had
been similarly occupied by the
region’s indigenous inhabitants
thousands of years ago.
For that blissful hour, I let my
eyes and thoughts wander and
disperse across the colossal
untouched Texas landscape.
I spent the next few days exploring
Big Bend’s other natural wonders,
from traversing the mighty Rio
Grande River and relaxing in its hot
springs, to marvelling at sheer
vertical canyon walls, to savouring
the delicacies of West Texas at
the park’s dining lodge.
Occasionally, I’d see a Texan
basking in Big Bend’s rugged
beauty. True to form, they’d politely
smile and oer a friendly “Howdy”
while acknowledging that we were
fortunate to be sharing such an
experience. But there was no
denying that the glory of Big Bend
oers the perfect gateway to
explore this wild state, yet it is far
from the only wonder to be found
here, as visitors soon discover. ⊳