Wanderlust UK – September 2019

(Axel Boer) #1

ZIMBABWE


wanderlust.co.uk September 2019 53

fromair-conandaminibar,to
aplungepooloutonthedeck.Later
thatnight,Iheardthesamegrumpy
lionsthroughthecanvas,roaringand
enjoyingtheirmidnightfeasts.
It’safarcryfromourguideNick’s
usualaccommodation.Helefthislife
asasuccessfulCitytradertotravel
acrossAfrica,fallinginlovewith
Manaanditswolvesenroute.His
homehereisadometentinthe
bush,asheaimstoraiseawareness
oftheplightofthepaintedwolves.
Followingtheir 60 minutesof
fameinDynasties,momentumis
growingaroundtheneedtoprotect
thesepredators.Nickhasspent
monthsatatimephotographingand
walkingwiththemoverthepastfive
years,documentingitallinhisnew
book(seeright).Theprofitsfrom
itssalegotothePaintedWolf
Foundation,whichheco-foundedlast
yearinanefforttoraisefundsand
supportfororganisationsworkingon
theirconservationinthefield.
“Iwantpeopletolovethewolves,
justastheylovethelions,rhinoand
elephants,”heexplainedoveraG&T


underastarlitskyonNyamatusi’s
terrace.“Ifwedon’tprotectthem
now,they’llbegoneforever.”

Sisteract
There’smoretoManathanitspainted
wolves,though.BoswellandFred
Astaire,apairofbullelephantswho
havemasteredtheartofstandingon
theirhindlegstoreachforpodshigh
upintheubiquitousalbidatrees,have
starringroleshere,too.Boswell
eludedusbutFredwasquicktoshow
offhistalent,leaningbackandraising
oneleguprighttotearoffabranch
fulloffood.Herdsofcowelephants
hadseveralbabiesintow,someso
tinythattheyfittedcomfortably
undertheirmum’stummiesasthey
suckled,tryingtocontroltheir
waywardtrunks.

Waterbucksandkuduwith
sweepingcurlyhornsstaredaswe
passedby;elegantelandsthesizeof
horsesusuallyfled,whiletheimpala
seemedtojumphighovernothing
orflyacrossthetrackinfrontofus.
Buttheantelopeswerehaving
amuchtoughertime.
Therains,whichusuallyfall
betweenDecemberandApril,
hadfailed.Whatshouldhavebeen
lushgreenlandscapeswerebare
andbarrenbyJune.Mostanimals
wouldstruggleoverthedryseason;
theexceptionwerepredatorslike
ScarfaceandBlondie,twolionswe
cameacrosslyingintheshade
waitingforeasypickings.Andifthe
lionsandhyenaweregetting
stronger,thatcouldproveaproblem
forthepaintedwolves.

Awilddog’slife
(top)Theproceedsfrom
Nick’snewbook,Painted
Wolves:AWildDog’sLife,
gotothePaintedWolf
Foundation,whichNick
co-foundedlastyearwith
conservationistDiane
SkinnerandPeterBlinston,
hisco-authoranddirector
oftheNGOPaintedDog
Conservation;(below)
Nick’sslightlygruesome
photoofpupsatplaywas
highlycommendedinthe
WildlifePhotographerof
theYear 2018 competition

‘Waterbucks and kudu with sweeping


curly horns stared as we passed by, while


impala flew across the track in front of us’



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