Wanderlust UK – September 2019

(Axel Boer) #1

GUATEMALA


wanderlust.co.uk September 2019 87

onemoresurpriseforus.Faroffinthedistance,
Fuegoboomedlikedthunderandbeganitsnightly
displayoflavapyrotechnics.


Weavingatale
Schoolwasoutandsomechildrencametoplay
aroundthecampsite.Theboysspottedmycamera
anddemandedaportrait,whilethegirls–dressed
intraditionalhuipils(blouses)andwraparoundcorte
skirtsfastenedwithwovenbelts–weremore
interestedinthetentsandthesoftnessofthebeds.
Thecampbordersoneofthecountry’spoorest
communities:agriculturalworkerswholivewithout
electricityorrunningwater.Rentingtheirlandfor
thecampsiteandworkingascampstaffandlocal
guidesgivesthemmuch-neededextraincometo
spendonmedicineandschoolsupplies.
Itwasalreadydarkandtwoone-roomevangelical
churches,eachwithanoutsizedsoundsystem,were
competingtospreadthewordwhenThelmaarrived
toshowushowtomakecorntortillas,astapleofthe
Guatemalandiet.Sheputaclayplatteronthefire,
pattedballsofdoughbetweenherhandsandcreated
aperfectlyroundtortilla.Ourattemptswereless
successful–thick,misshapenbutequallytastywhen
pairedwiththatevening’spepián,arichspicystew.
Thefollowingmorningwefiledalongdusty
pre-colonialpathwaysandthroughfieldslittered
withtheskeletalhusksofharvestedcornand
regimentedwithrowsofsnowpeas.Peopleworked
theirplotswithbasichoeswhileIstoodbackto
letanoldmanpass;herandownhillinacloud
ofdustandcarryingapileoflogsonhisback
thatwasalmostastallashewas.
Windingupanarrowridgetothehighestpartof
thetrek,wherecropsmetcloudforest,westopped
togazeoverthedistantPacificslopesandthesix
volcanoesthatmaterialiseoncleardays.After
stoppingforlunchonagrassyplateaubackedby
whisperingcypresses,wedescendedbetween
forestedpeaksandtoweringsugarcane.
Thateveningwevisitedawomen’sweaving
cooperativeinanearbyvillage.Threegenerations
ofthesamefamilyweremakinghuipils;somewere
kneelingatbackstraplooms,deftlypassingthe
shuttlethroughacomplexmeshofthreads,others
wereembroideringflowers,aMayasymbolof
fertility,orspinningyarn.Thesearen’tsomuch
piecesofclothingasapartofeachcommunity’s
identity,withthecoloursandage-oldsymbols
inspiredbynature.Noraretheymadeinahurry.
“Complexhuipilscantakeuptofourmonthsto
make,”explainedthegrandmother,who’dbeen
weavingfor 40 yearsandcouldstillkneelallday.


Communityspirits
Thefinallegofthetrekbroughtaknee-challenging
descentintotheMadreViejarivervalley.Wewalked
alongtwistingnarrowtracksthatcutthrough
apatchworkoffields,stoppingtogreetanelderly




‘Far off in the distance, Fuego


boomed liked thunder and began its


nightly display of lava pyrotechnics’


Mountain high
(bottom to top) The
views over Fuego and
Acatenango volcanoes;
hiking the forest on the
third day of the trek
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