2019/20 JEWELS & TIME 29SPOTLIGHT
Watch design is a dynamic process that requires a
thorough consideration and understanding of everything
from a brand’s heritage to the technicality of watchmaking.
Given the level of expertise required for such a job, it is rare
to see any brand getting someone outside the watch industry
to design a watch from scratch. But that is precisely what
Hermès did by enlisting Switzerland-based lighting and
furniture designer Ini Archibong to create a new timepiece
for the maison.
Prior to this collaboration with Hermès, the 36-year-old
Archibong had never designed a watch before. And he is
exactly the talent that the brand had sought—someone with
a completely fresh eye to create its next new watch. In other
words, he was able to create a timepiece that was free from
watchmaking conventions—a beautiful object made for
accessorising the wrist that just happened to give the time.
This watch, named Galop d’Hermès, may very well become
the house’s new icon.
“The material I work with is light,” said Archibong about
the design of the Galop d’Hermès. “It’s about the way light
plays on the surfaces and how that gives the sense of shape
while giving a sense of
freedom and fl uidity.”
Light is certainly what
enhances the unique form
of the Galop d’Hermes,
whose stirrup-shaped
case sets it apart from
other Hermès watches
that have come before
it. The smooth curves
of the case refl ect light
in every direction,
contrasted by the grained
dial with a recessed
opaline centre and
gilt-transferred numerals
that subtly glimmer.
To keep the form of
the case clean, Archibong
moved the crown from
the conventional 3 o’clock
position to 6 o’clock.
He also worked with
Text Nicolette Wong
OFF TO
THE RACES
The new Galop d’Hermès watch shows
what is possible when an outsider takes
the design reins at Hermès
NO HORSEPLAY
Ini Archibong may be new to the world of
watchmaking but his furniture design sensibility has
given Hermès watches a breath of fresh air; a look at
the manufacturing process of the Galop d’Hermèstypographer Vincent Sauvaire to create the Arabic numerals
on the dial. If you look closely, you will notice that the
numerals get smaller and more slanted as the case tapers
towards the top, creating the illusion of perspective.
Archibong’s attention to detail also extends to certain
minute elements. The numeral eight on the watch, for
instance, has a fl at top, once again recreating the shape of an
upside-down stirrup. The lug at the top has been integrated
into the case—much like the opening on a real stirrup—
while the lower lug echoes the angular fl at shape of a stirrup’s
bottom end.
“[I wanted to] have something that is curvaceous and
beautiful, but also succinct and direct and to the point, and
doesn’t need to be dainty or covered in diamonds necessarily
to speak to a woman’s power,” he said.
In our opinion, the Galop d’Hermès is more beautiful in
steel without diamonds, which leaves the curves of the case
exposed so that they can be appreciated fully. But of course,
there will be those who can’t resist a sprinkling of bling on
every accessory they own, which they will be happy to fi nd
on the Galop d’Hermès in pink gold.