South African Garden and Home – September 2019

112 SEPTEMBER 2019 | gardenandhome.co.za

It was en route to Nishiki Market,
a hive of bustling stalls selling snacks
and fresh ingredients, that I saw the
first cherry blossom trees. They lined
the street, a fusion of pink and white,
some gently dropping their blooms. In
the market, I stocked up on spices and
packets of cherry blossoms preserved in
salt before devouring shrimp and honey
yakitori (skewers).
It’s only in the markets that eating
while walking is acceptable, and the
locals, ever respectful, never litter. Still
peckish, I ventured into a 10-seater
restaurant. Seated at the counter I
ordered gyoza (dumplings). Mine were a
heavenly mix of pork and shrimp folded
into a round, fried and served with a
piquant soy and chilli dip.
My love affair with this cultured city
continued on a free walking tour. Our
guide, Dominic, a pastry chef, shared his
knowledge and passion for the arts while
guiding us through the streets. In Gion,
known as the geisha district (or pleasure
quarter), he explained the mystique of
these women, renowned for the art of
refined conversation, companionship,
calligraphy, song, dance and the
ceremonious serving of tea. He warned

us that the Japanese are fiercely protective

of their reputation, so visitors should

avoid disrespecting them. I spotted a few

of the young geishas, known as maiko,

walking briskly through narrow streets to

and from the teahouses in their brightly

coloured kimonos and wooden sandals.

He also highlighted 20 UNESCO

World Heritage sites that Kyoto is famous

for such as Ryoan-ji, the famous Zen rock

garden, the Kinkaku-ji Temple and the

famous Golden Pavilion.

The gardens, compact and neatly

manicured are exquisite. Stroll and tea

gardens are designed for wandering.

In a tea garden, the path represents the

passage between the real world and

the traditional tea ceremony. Paths,

like most things in Japan, are orderly

with a starting and finishing point and

in between there are brightly painted

red bridges, eye-catching pagodas and

trickling streams.

Shrines and temples play large roles

in Japanese culture – shrines are Shinto,

while temples are Buddhist. At the

Kennin-ji Temple.

A maiko

running errands. Pagoda in Gion.

A carpet of blossoms

at the tea shop.