South African Garden and Home – September 2019

gardenandhome.co.za | SEPTEMBER 2019 113

Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto, decorated with

lanterns hanging in rows and featured

in many geisha movies, Dominic

demonstrated appropriate behaviour. Use

a wooden ladle to lift water to wash your

left hand, then right hand before ringing

the bell loudly to awaken the spirits.

Bow twice, clap your hands twice. If it’s

your first visit, introduce yourself to the

spirits. To ensure good fortune, tie your

written wish to a tree, and to leave your

bad luck behind, donate.

Next stop was the Kennin-ji Temple

wherefloweringazaleascreateabackdrop

ofcolourasthecherryblossomsfade.At

the most Instagrammed temple, Yasaka

Koshindo, I pushed past the masses to

write a confession and wrapped it in cloth

tied into the shape of a monkey to hang

with the many others seeking forgiveness.

While a tea ceremony is high on most

tourists’ lists, I chose to take tea in a

local ryokan, a traditional Japanese

inn with tatami mats on the floor. It

overlooked a koi pond in a gorgeous

garden covered in a carpet of fallen

blossoms. I sat cross-legged on the

floor sipping the earthy green matcha

tea, accompanied by Japanese sweets

prepared from red bean paste.

Then it was off to Kanazawa in the

north, a 1,5-hour ride on the highly

efficient Sakura Express. Daunting

at first, the train system is simple to

navigate and locals will assist if you look

lost. Here, the highlight was a visit to

Zeniya, a two-Michelin star restaurant

withonly eight seats at the counter. It’s

not only in the gardens that a heightened

awareness of seasons is obvious, the food

in Japan is as fresh as the day it’s caught

or harvested. I enjoyed a kaiseki, a series

of small, skilfully served dishes, each one

using a few premium ingredients.

After a memorable meal prepared by

chef Shin Takagi, he took us to the local

market to meet the suppliers and to

understand the value of provenance. He

showed me the brightly coloured snails

that I’d devoured as sashimi, and the

bright green wasabi root.

From my hotel, I walked to Kenroku-

en Gardens. This unique garden has

towering trees, moss-covered floors and

imposing statues. At sunset, a string

quartet started to play in the charming

teahouse with a surreal backdrop of

illuminated trees. It was hard to tear

myself away.

PLANNINGYOUR TRIP

GETTINGTHEREEmiratesfliesregularlyfromCape Town and Jo’burg to Osaka

andTokyo,viaDubai.

GETTINGAROUNDBuyyourJapanRailPassbefore leaving and validate it on

arrival.Itcoversmostbulletandsomelocaltrains,ferries and buses.

VISASApplyforavisaonlineatza.emb-japan.go.jp/en/visas/visa_application,

downloadaformandsubmititinpersonataConsular Office.

HANDS-FREETRAVELSendyourluggageonfromyour hotel or local convenience

storetoyournexthotel,makingtraintravelhassle-free

CURRENCYThecurrencyistheyen.Atthetimeofgoing to print R1=JPY7,63. An

averagemealcostsJPY1000–JPY3 000 YEN(aboutR130 to R390).

Oikeniwa Garden in Kyoto.

Shrines suddenly appear

in most shopping streets.

Takoyaki (octupus-

filled batter balls) are

on every street corner.

Try your hand at making sushi
in an interactive cooking class.