152 SEPTEMBER 2019 | TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM
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too young; we were
very happy to drink it nonetheless.
In my experience, Hermitage wines, both
whites and reds, need about 20 years to really
begin to show their potential, and in the best
vintages they can improve for 30 or even 40
years. The 1999 red is just beginning to show
the secondary characteristics that make Her-
mitage so special. For Chave, who joined his
father Gérard in 1992, 20 years is, relative to
the history of the domain, the blink of an eye.L
ater that day, drinking a 1978 direct
from the cellar with grilled lamb
chops at the winery, savoring the kalei-
doscope of aromas and flavors, which were
suggestive of plums, truffles, leather, grilled
meat, and savory herbs, it was easy to imag-
ine that this was the kind of wine admired
and enjoyed by Louis XIV and Nicholas II—
both of whom were Hermitage fans. I have
had similarly transporting, anachronistic
experiences with Hermitage vintages includ-
ing the 1989, ’90, ’91, and ’95.
The wines from Saint-Joseph, on the
other hand, are much more accessible—and
affordable. They do not require decades to
show their stuff. “My generation rediscovered
Saint-Joseph,” Chave said, and the appellation,
which was once farmed by his ancestors,
seems to have a bright future. Two hundred
years ago it was hard to ripen grapes in this
area, but that is no longer the case. “Marginal
areas like Saint-Joseph are benefiting from
global warming,” Chave said.
He makes an early-drinking Saint-Joseph,
Offerus, from grapes he purchases from other
growers. The 2015 version, which sells for less
than $40, is an excellent introduction to the
Chave style and to Northern Rhône syrah.
His finest Saint-Joseph, which comes from
a long-established vineyard at the bottom of
the hill called Clos Florentin, is more expen-
sive. The production will expand as more of
the young hillside vineyards come online,
although Chave believes that it will be many
decades before the wines from these new vine-
yards show their full potential. But he is in
no hurry. [CONTINUED FROM PAGE 74]INHERITANCE COMPLEX
SHOPPING & CREDIT
INFORMATIONEDITOR’S LETTER
PAGE 38 DAVID HART, DAVIDHARTNYC.COM. GASPAR GLOVES
BY DOROTHY GASPAR, GASPARGLOVES.COM. HERMES, HERMES
.COM. OSCAR DE LA RENTA, [email protected].
PACO RABANNE, PACORABANNE.COM. TOMBOLO, TOMBOLO
COMPANY.COM. VILEBREQUIN, VILEBREQUIN.COM. WING & WEFT
GLOVES, WINGWEFTGLOVES.COM.BOURGEOIS? MOI?
PAGES 102 – 107 BALENCIAGA, 212-328-1671. BOTTEGA VENETA,
BOTTEGAVENETA.COM. CHANEL & CHANEL FINE JEWELRY, 800-
550-0005. FENDI, FENDI.COM. GASPAR GLOVES BY DOROTHY
GASPAR, GASPARGLOVES.COM. GUCCI, GUCCI.COM. PRADA,
212-334-8888. WING & WEFT GLOVES, WINGWEFTGLOVES.COM.THE VISIT
PAGE 11 4– 11 5: ON HER, DIOR, 800-929-DIOR; GIUSEPPE
ZANOTTI PUMPS ($995), GIUSEPPEZANOTTI.COM. ON HIM,
CORRIDOR, CORRIDORNYC.COM; PHINEAS COLE, PAU LST UA R T
.COM. PAGE 11 6: GIORGIO ARMANI, SIMILAR STYLES AT ARMANI
.COM; DOLCE & GABBANA EARRINGS ($595). PAGE 11 7: ON HER,
DOLCE & GABBANA, DOLCEGABBANA.COM; CZ BY KENNETH JAY
LANE EARRINGS (FROM $65), RING ($125), KENNETHJAYLANE.COM;
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, VANCLEEFARPELS.COM. ON HIM, DOLCE &
GABBANA, DOLCEGABBANA.COM; STUBBS & WOOTTON LOAFERS
($525), STUBBSANDWOOTTON.COM. PAGE 11 8– 119 : ON HER, MI-
CHAEL KORS COLLECTION, MICHAELKORS.COM; DIOR EARRINGS,
NECKLACE, RINGS (PRICES ON REQUEST), 800-929-DIOR; KENNETH
JAY LANE RING, KENNETHJAYLANE.COM; VAN CLEEF & ARPELS,
VANCLEEFARPELS.COM. ON HIM, TOMBOLO, TOMBOLOCOMPANY
.COM; VILEBREQUIN, VILEBREQUIN.COM; PAGE 120 : LOUIS VUIT-
TON, LOUISVUITTON.COM; KENNETH JAY LANE EARRINGS ($125),
RING ($100), BROOCH ($250), KENNETHJAYLANE.COM; MANOLO
BLAHNIK PUMPS ($975), BERGDORF GOODMAN, 800-558-1855.
PAGE 121 : ON HER, PRADA, PRADA.COM; CZ BY KENNETH JAY
LANE EARRINGS (FROM $65), KENNETHJAYLANE.COM; DIOR RINGS,
800-929-DIOR. ON HIM, TOMBOLO, TOMBOLOCOMPANY.COM;
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, BRUNELLOCUCINELLI.COM.SOURCEBOOK
PAGES 1 54– 1 55 CZ KENNETH JAY LANE EARRINGS ($125),
KENNETHJAYLANE.COM. EMPORIO ARMANI BELT ($145), ARMANI
.COM. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, SELECT ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA BOU-
TIQUES. JIMMY CHOO SHOES ($975), JIMMYCHOO.COM. KENNETH
JAY LANE BROOCH ($250), RING ($100), KENNETHJAYLANE.COM.
MASTOLONI, MASTOLONI.COM. PAUL STUART, PAULSTUART.COM.
PETER PILOTTO, BERGDORFGOODMAN.COM. ROGER VIVIER
PUMPS ($695), ROGERVIVIER.COM. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO,
FERRAGAMO.COM. STUBBS & WOOTTON LOAFERS ($525), STUBBS
ANDWOOTTON.COM. TABITHA SIMMONS SLINGBACKS ($745),
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