Britain – September 2019

http://www.britain-magazine.com BRITAIN (^65)
PHOTOS:
JEAN-CHRISTOPHE
GODET/ROBERT
BIRKBY/AWL
IMAGES
Attheotherendoftheroom,a carvedtableanked
bythreechairsappearssetforJudgmentDay.
It’sa relieftoescapetothelightat theverytopof
thehouse.Theglass-walled‘Lookout’wasdesigned
byHugoasa studio.Thepoetwroteherestandingup,
nallycompletingLesMisérables, anepic20-year
effort.Hewasinspired,nodoubt,bythebreathtaking
viewoftheislandsofSarkandHermand,ona ne
day,hishomeland.“Anyplacefordreamingis good,”
hewrote,“providedthatit’sinanobscurecornerand
thehorizonis vast.”
Despitefearsthathis“presentrefuge”wouldbecome
his“probabletomb”,after 19 yearsinexileHugo
returnedtohisbelovedFrancein 1870 andwas
welcomedbackasa nationalhero.Finallyfreetoroam
ashechose,hereturnedseveraltimestoGuernsey,
wherethelifeofanexilehadunexpectedlygiftedhim
freedomofa differentkind.
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Left to right:
Hugo's book Toilers
of the Sea is set
on Guernsey; the
'Lookout', where
Les Misérables
was completed
GETTING THERE
Aurigny flies to Guernsey from London
Gatwick (1hr 15min) and other UK airports.
Alternatively, Condor Ferries operate a service
from Poole (3hr) and Portsmouth (7hr).
http://www.aurigny.com; http://www.condorferries.co.uk
WHERE TO STAY
La Grande Mare is a comfortable hotel
on the west coast, overlooking Guernsey’s
largest sandy beach, Vazon Bay, and
surrounded by landscaped gardens. In St Peter
Port, the Old Government House is a luxury
boutique hotel with bags of old-world charm.
http://www.lagrandemare.com;
http://www.theoghhotel.com
WHERE TO EAT
Fermain Beach Café has freshly
caught seafood on the menu, and a view
of the bay that was one of Hugo’s favourites.
The Swan Inn in St Peter Port offers tasty
gastropub fare; pies are a speciality.
fermainbeachcafe.gg
HAUTEVILLE HOUSE
The house is open daily except
Wednesdays from April to September.
Entrance is by prebooked guided tour only
(email [email protected]).
FURTHER INFORMATION
http://www.visitguernsey.com
THE PLANNER
i