Britain – September 2019

TRAVELESSENTIALS

GETTINGTHERE

TrainsrunfromLondonLiverpoolStreet

toDarsham(journeytimearound2hr),fromwhere

youcantakeataxitoSouthwold.

http://www.thetrainline.com;www.southwoldprivatehire.co.uk

EAT,DRINK,SLEEP

ThehistoricSwanhotel,a17th-centurycoaching

houseintheheartoftown,hasrecentlyhadan

impressivefacelift,withastylishmixofantiques,pops

ofbrightcolourandquirkyart.Thehotel’stwo

restaurants–theelegantStillRoom,withnodstothe

town’sbrewingheritage,andthecosier,moreinformal

TapRoom–arefineplacesfordinner.Forlunch,Two

MagpiesBakeryontheHighStreetdoesexcellent

sausagerolls,aswellassweettreatssuchasrosewater

andpistachiomeringues.

FURTHERINFORMATION

http://www.exploresouthwold.co.uk

74 BRITAIN http://www.britain-magazine.com

WEEKENDER

striking a bell with his

battleaxe.

Southwold Jack is also

the symbol of the town’s

much-loved brewery,

Adnams. Southwold has

made its own beer since

medieval times, but it

wasn’t until the arrival

of George and Ernst

Adnams in 1872 that

the business of brewing

really took off. Award-

winning Adnams is now

the town’s largest

employer, and in

addition to its cask ales has expanded

to produce gin, vodka, whisky and – new

this year – cider. Tours exploring more

than 650 years of brewing history are

led by engaging local guides.

As you would expect from a town with

Southwold’s brewing pedigree, there are

plenty of appealing pubs in which to sample

a pint or two. Our favourite is the nautical-

themed Lord Nelson, which also serves

Southwold’s nest sh and chips.

The pubs may be tempting, but the sea soon

beckons. Southwold’s expanse of sandy beach

is made for summer picnics – buy lunch at

Suzie’s Beach Café on the seafront

Promenade, or if you’re staying at The Swan

hotel, use its Butler on the Beach service:

deckchairs, rugs and a gourmet picnic will

be ferried to the beach at your bidding.

A stroll along the timeless pier, originally

opened in 1900, is a must. The eccentric

Under the Pier Show showcases Tim Hunkin’s

one-of-a-kind interactive machines, such as i

the ‘Bathyscape’, which

simulates a journey to

the sea oor.

For an intriguing

glimpse into the life of

19th-century sea-dogs,

visit the Southwold

Sailors’ Reading Room

on the Promenade, built

in 1864 to provide a

refuge for mariners when

not at sea – and an

alternative source of

entertainment to all those

pubs. Packed with

maritime paraphernalia,

it’s a fascinating relic to a lost way of life.

Walk south along the beach to reach the

busy harbour, meeting point of the River

Blyth and the North Sea. A seasonal ferry

here – actually just a rowing boat – takes

you over the water to Walberswick, another

coastal idyll with tea rooms, historic pubs

and a stunning dune-backed beach.

Further south along the SuffolkHeritage

Coast, stop at Dunwich, England’s‘lostcity’,

which once matched 14th-centuryLondonfor

size; Dunwich Museum tells the extraordinary

tale of a city lost to the sea.

The other essential stop along thecoast

is pretty Aldeburgh, famous for itscultural

festival, founded in 1948 by composer

Benjamin Britten, a leading light ofBritish

classical music. Crunch along thepebbly

beach, visit Britten’s house, and takein

a concert at nearby Snape Maltings,whose

world-renowned concert halls hostthe

Aldeburgh Festival in June, as wellas

performances throughout the year. PHOTOS:

© EYE35/I-WEI HUANG/PAUL WILLIAMS/JAMES BARRETT/ALAMY

Formore

greatthingstosee

anddoinSuffolk,

gotowww.britain-

magazine.com

This image: An Edwardian

house overlooking the sea

Below: The town's

colourful beach huts