Britain – September 2019

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EYE35/ALAMY/ILLUSTRATION:

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MICHAEL A HILL

We visit Cornwall’s onlycity,thevibrantmarkettown and port of Truro,

and discover there’s more to the Cornish coast than beaches

WORDS ZARA GASPAR

ornwall's bustling capital, Truro,

once stood at the confluence

of three rivers, the Kenwyn,

Allen and Tinney – hence the name,

derived from the Cornish word Tri-veru

(three rivers). Originally an Iron Age

settlement, during the 12th century a

castle was built by Richard Lucy, Chief

Justice under Henry II, and the town was

granted a Royal Charter by King John,

giving it the right to hold markets. From

the 14th century, Truro became a busy

port, with ships sailing into Lemon Quay,

and a key stannary town, which once

presided over the weighing and quality

control of locally mined tin and copper

before it was shipped elsewhere. In the

Georgian and Victorian periods streets

full of genteel townhouses were built

by wealthy local mine owners, and by

the 18th century it had become known

as the 'London of Cornwall'. Queen

Victoria granted Truro city status in

1877, and it continues to flourish today.

The cathedral, which dominates the

skyline with its Gothic spires, is a must-see,

but make time, too, for the town’s

waterways and gardens, shopping and

culture. Stroll the cobbled streets and

narrow passages to admire the Georgian

townhouses and Victorian villas. Hunt for

treasures in the independent boutiques

and markets, or browse local art

in the city’s galleries. And if you feel like

exploring, Truro is on the doorstep of the

Cornwall Area of Outstanding Natural

Beauty, whose dramatic coastal scenery

is dotted with historic castles.

TRURO

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