64 MOTORCYCLE CLASSICS September/October 2019
tence farmers, most families own a
smallholding on which they grow rice,
vegetables and chilies — their basic
diet. Unlike India’s vegetarian Hindus,
though, the Buddhist Bhutanese add
beef or chicken. Although their religion
forbids killing, they eat meat if someone
else slaughtered it!
To maintain Bhutan’s ethnic
integrity, King Jigme Singye
Wangchuck also introduced several
controversial programs: repatriating
Nepalese refugees; requiring Bhutanese
to wear their national dress. And, mind-
ful of nearby Nepal’s experience, a tour-
ist visa still costs $250 per day, the
intention being to avoid the country
being overrun, like Khatmandu, with
vagabond travelers. The visa, though,
does include accommodation in govern-
ment guest houses, meals and a guide.
Jigme Singye has now abdicated in
favor of his son, Jigme Khesar Namgyel
Wangchuck, and Bhutan has become
a constitutional (rather than absolute)
monarchy with an elected government.
Even TV and the internet have been
introduced — though whether that’s a
positive change or not remains to be
seen!The company
The first motorcycle tour compa-
ny allowed into Bhutan, Himalayan
Roadrunners organized our odyssey on
Chennai (Madras)-built Enfields (the
“Royal” came later). The 500cc Bullets
were made “Like a Gun” just as they
were in 1956 — though our 1997 bikes
included turn signals and a twin-lead-
ing-shoe front brake. But the feel was
still strictly vintage.
Our train of five bikes included
Himalayan Roadrunners’ Rob Callander
and Charles Gay, plus Gyan, our mechan-
ic with two drivers in the support truck,
and Dorje, our mandatory Bhutanese
guide with his own minivan and driver.
As of 2019, Himalayan Roadrunners
still offers tours of Nepal and Bhutan,
and it’s now possible to ride right across
the country from west to east and into
Assam, India.
For more information, visit
http://www.ridehigh.com MCPrayer flags snap in the wind.
Roadside chortens (monuments)
are common. Trongsa Dzong is
the largest fortress in Bhutan.