At the glass festival in nearby Piegaro
(a commune known for its glassmaking
since the Middle Ages), I encounter
Fabio Berna and his friend Franco
Burrello manning a food stall in the
piazza near the glass museum. “Try the
crocchette di riso allo zafferano
[croquettes made with saffron-
flavoured rice],” urges Fabio, who
owns an agritourism farm (named
Melagrani Farm) nearby, where he
grows grains, vegetables, olives
and saffron. “My name, Fabio, is
my destiny,” he jokes. Fa means
“to make” in Italian and bio means
“organic”, which – along with saffron
- is something he’s passionate about.
“It’s my mission!” he exclaims, before
explaining how standards for saffron-
growing in Italy have been tightly
controlled since the 1980s.
Fabio and Franco’s stall, Sapore, is
dedicated to foodies and local organic
food. Franco also offers cookery
classes at his home for visitors, during
which he loves to use the subtle flavour
of saffron in traditional dishes. It seems
his passion has rubbed off on the next
generation – his son, Francesco,
already helps him with pasta-making
demonstrations while his daughter,
Desiree, insists on having a regular
supply of her favourite saffron-
flavoured biscuits baked for her.
Saffron turns up again at Bistrot del
Duca, a restaurant tucked under the
defensive walls of Città della Pieve,
where saffron risotto is the signature
offering. And, where better to learn
the secrets of making this simple yet
sophisticated dish than from the chef-
patron, Christian Palazzi, whose
cooking has earned the eatery
SAFFRON RISOTTO
Bistrot del Duca’s signature dish
Serves 4A LITTLE EFFORT1hr
WHAT YOU NEED
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp salted butter + 1 tbsp extra,
chilled, to serve
1 shallot, peeled and chopped
320g arborio rice
1,2L hot vegetable stock
125ml(½cup)drywhitewine
½ tsp saffron threads, toasted
in a dry non-stick frying pan for
60 seconds before bashed to a
powder between two sheets of
baking paper
1 tbsp grated Taleggio/Parmesan
fresh mint leaves, to garnish
HOW TO DO IT
1 Heat the olive oil and butter in a
large, deep frying pan over medium
heat until the butter has melted. Add
the chopped shallot and fry until
slightly browned, about 10 minutes.
Add the rice and stir continuously
until coated well.
2 Add a ladle of hot stock, then add
the wine. Stir, continuously, until all
of the liquid has been absorbed.
Add a second ladleful of hot stock,
stirring until absorbed. Continue
untilallofthestockhasbeenadded
and the rice is cooked al dente. Add
the ground saffron about 10 minutes
after adding the first ladle of stock.
3 Remove from heat and fold in the
chilledbutterandgratedTaleggio/
Parmesan. Set aside to rest, about
5 minutes. Divide the risotto among
4servingplates.Garnishwithfresh
mint leaves.
cook’s tip
Ensure the stock remains heated throughout by placing it in a
pot over low heat while continuing with the recipe.
SAFFRON RISOTTO
FOR
A SAFFRON-
BASED DESSERT
RECIPE,
TURN TO PAGE 104
FOODANDHOME.CO.ZA APRIL 2019 95
CULINARY TRAVEL