Travel+Leisure India & South Asia – August 2019

(Wang) #1

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HANNAH PETERS/GETTYIMAGES

A MALE HAKA WARRIOR, dressed in a black,
white, and red tāniko kilt, comes out of the
meeting house on Waitangi Treaty Grounds
in Bay of Islands, New Zealand, pointing a
Maori spear at us. Each move is made in
caution and defiance, ready for war. After a
dramatic presentation of aggressive moves
that include manoeuvring the spear and
stamping the feet to loud chanting, he places
a green leaf on the ground. Dan, a volunteer
‘tribe chief’ from our group, accepts it—a
sign that we come in peace.
We are welcomed into the meeting
room and take our seats on wooden
benches before a stage where a group of
eight ceremonial dancers present the
haka, a Maori war dance as well as social
performance. The rhythmic stomping,
amplified by the sharp thud of their
wooden spears on the ground, generates
an adrenaline rush—completely different
from the one I experienced while
skydiving a few hours ago.

A Matter of


Life & Death


Steeped in legends, kauri trees are an integral part of
Maori culture and faith. On a visit to New Zealand’s
Northland, Phorum Dalal understands the urgency
of the fight for their conservation.

CONSERVATION

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