Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist – September 2019

(やまだぃちぅ) #1

3c


3f


3d


3g


3e


3h


4 4a4b


3g


Holding the bezel fi rmly and
securely on the pin, align
the notches with the saw blade to
establish the center line. Saw these
lines to ½ the depth of the saw blade
into the bezel wall.

3h


Set the dividers for the prong
width and mark from the
center line to each side.
At the outer sides of the prongs,
saw the prong lines to ½ the depth of
the saw blade.

CARVE THE PATTERN
The lines are ready for 3D excava-
tion. I use the same progression
of steps to fi le and refi ne each of
the prongs and the scallops. Work
around the bezel by working in
opposition: one end and the oppos-
ing end, then one side and the

opposing side. This trains the eye to
see balance as the shape emerges.
For me, this approach enables a
more precise result than working
around the bezel in a clockwise or
anticlockwise progression.

REVEAL THE PRONGS
The critical step of fi ling requires
the work be very stable and well
supported. A common wedge or
screw style ring clamp is an ideal
holding device, providing additional
leverage and control, as shown in
photos 4a-c and 5.

4


File prong lines with a square
fi le to expand the saw cuts into
V-shaped grooves. Use one corner of
the square held fi rmly downward in
the line and fi le straight, even grooves
to defi ne the prongs. File the same

depth (at least ½ way into the
metal) on each groove.

4a


Round the prongs with
a barrette fi le to remove
sharp corners and shape the
grooves into cylindrical col-
umns. I fi le in a specifi c pattern
to ensure each prong receives
the same treatment: inner
edges between the double
prongs fi rst, then outer edges
of the double prongs, then the
edges of the single prongs. File
each groove from both direc-
tions to keep the lines straight
and parallel.

4b


Round the scallops with
a barrette fi le to refi ne
them and shape the contour of
the sections between the prongs.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2019 25

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