Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist – September 2019

8e

MASTER THE JEWELER’S

SAW (video)

ww.interweave.com/jewelry

More with

Michael

Support

You r Work

In addition to helping you

organize your studio, Michael

David Sturlin focuses exten-

sively on using the bench pin

effectively in this workshop:

CREATE THE PERFECT

WORKSPACE (video)

7b http://www.interweave.com/jewelry

Saw out the back plate from

the surrounding sheet and

fi le to fi t inside the bezel. This might

take a few minutes. File precisely

so the back plate is centered in the

beveled opening of the insert.

7c

Here we see the fi nished

three-piece setting with the

bottom facing up, displaying the

pierced and carved design of the

back plate.

7d

Here is the fi nished setting

with the shank and parts

ready to assemble. The ring on the

left has the stone oriented along the

fi nger, while the ring on the right has

the stone oriented across the fi nger.

7e

The components assembled.

7f

The undersides of the rings.

7g

The rings upright.

7h

Te nsion -fi t settings posi-

tioned upside down provide

stability during soldering. The ring

can be soldered entirely from the

back by pick soldering. Use medium

solder.

8

Solder the insert into the setting

with small spheres of medium

solder.

8a

Solder the setting into the

shank with a sphere of

medium solder strategically placed

at each of the four connection

points.

SET THE STONE

Although you can partially close thick

prongs with a pusher, it can also slip

as you try, damaging the stone or

setting or injuring the setter. Instead,

I prefer the control a chasing hammer

and setting punch give me as I move

the metal onto the stone.

8b

Putting the ring in a setting

block (engraving ball) is the

very best way to secure the item

for hammer setting the cabochon.

Putting wax across the stone helps

keep it from shifting as the fi rst

prongs begin to move.

8c

Set the stone under good

lighting and with adequate

magnifi cation.

8d

Using a hammer and punch

provides controlled move-

ment of the prongs onto the stone.

8e

Tighten each prong and

refi ne the fi nal shape with the

punch.

Setting is complete and the jewel is

ready to wear!

MICHAEL DAVID STURLIN is an accomplished

goldsmith, writer, and teacher. His jewelry has been

exhibited in premier galleries across North America,

and is featured in the book, Masters: Gold, and in

more than a dozen national and international jewelry

magazines, in which he has also authored several

columns and features. His award-winning work has

been recognized by the World Gold Council, the

American Jewelry Design Council, and Jewelers of

America New Designers Gallery. He has taught at

the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts, the Bead &

Button Show, Mesa Arts Center, and Metalwerx, and

shares four decades of goldsmithing experience

and professional insight with students at all levels

through his international program of visiting artist

workshops and studio retreats for metalsmiths and

jewelry makers.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2019 31