Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist – September 2019

(やまだぃちぅ) #1

Recognized as a June birthstone
and historically deemed a lucky gem,
moonstone is a variety of the mineral
feldspar. Amazonite, andesine, and
labradorite are also feldspar family
gemstones.
“Moonstone is not enhanced or
treated; it’s all natural,” cheers Paul
Dragone, president of the Boston-
based Boston Gems. “It’s a unique
gemstone that has motion and life.
And, it comes in all price points.”
In the moonstone business for 30
years, Dragone believes this gem is
riding a wave of popularity that has
no end in sight. For the past fi ve
years, he says moonstone has been
extremely popular, not only for high-
end customers who want something
diff erent, but also for younger con-
sumers in silver jewelry that’s more
aff ordably priced.
“Designers large and small love
moonstone,” he hails. “The red car-
pet’s favorite designers have been
using this ethereal gem for years, like
Irene Neuwirth, Deirdre Featherstone,
and Temple St. Clair.” Possessing a
vast inventory of moonstones in fi ve
varieties, he cites blue sheen moon-
stone as most popular.
Moonstones are designer darlings
because they bring a lot of “piz-
zazz” to precious gemstone designs,
says Manu Nichani, of Blue Moon
Enterprises, Carlsbad, California:
“Anyone can work with moonstone,
which is an important reason why
moonstone’s popularity sustains.
Moonstones are phenomenal gems
that have a lot of allure, magic, and
mythology around them.”


CUT IS KEY
Interesting cuts in moonstone is a
key trend, says Nichani, who cites
rose cut, checkerboard and briolette,
bullet and cone shapes, and beads.
“Moonstone easily transforms from a
fresh day gem to a glamorous night
stone,” he fi nds.


Seattle designer Shamila Jiwa of
Shamila Fine Distinctive Jewelry be-
lieves that the availability of diff erent
cuts and shapes in moonstone have
inspired designers. “Cut and shape set
a moonstone apart,” she says, sharing
that she works with such shapes as
trillion, hexagon, and round medallion.
A fan a many gems, Jiwa says
that when she’s shopping she looks
for stones that captivate her atten-
tion. “I don’t go by trends,” she says.
“It’s about how I feel when I hold
the stone.” She tells of a recent fi nd,
a strand of rainbow moonstone in
freeform pebble shapes, 245 to-
tal carats that became a beautiful
custom piece. “The moonstones had
this silky, fabric-like quality with lilac
undertones.”
Consumers are used to seeing
really opaque material, but there are
diff erent grades of moonstone, says
Jiwa. The most highly favored moon-
stones display a colorless, translucent
to nearly transparent appearance
with no visible inclusions, and a vivid
blue adularescence seen from a
range of angles.
Designer Daria de Koning Fine
Jewelry, New York City says that many
of her new pieces, primarily set in 18K
yellow gold, feature moonstone this
year. She describes moonstone’s al-
lure as a “gravitational pull that draws
people in” and sees it as a three-
dimensional stone that changes every
time the light hits it.

“Moonstone easily


transforms from


a fresh day gem


to a glamorous


night stone.”


De Koning has been using a va-
riety of colors and tones in moon-
stone — especially in white, peach,
and gray hues — and works with the
gem as a central design element and
accent. “It’s a hearty gemstone,” she
says, noting that it works well in ev-
ery jewelry style. Partial to wearing
and making earrings, she also enjoys
the challenge of fi nding the perfect
matched pair.
Jiwa likes how moonstone mixes
so well with other gemstones, as
she explores in her popular stack-
able rings and pendant necklaces
for layering. She enjoys showing off
diff erent pairings like peach and
gray moonstone with smoky quartz,
white moonstone with rose quartz,
rainbow moonstone with indicolite,
and playing with diff erent metal
colors as well like peach moonstone
with rose gold or gray moonstone
with a deep pink rose quartz in silver
or white gold.
Finding good material, advises
de Koning, really boils down to your
stone dealer. “I go to people who
generally carry quality products, so
I am more likely to fi nd better mate-
rial with strong adularescence.”

DEBORAH YONICK has been writing about
jewelry and fashion trends for more than 25
years for trade and consumer publications and
online, and has loved both for much longer!
With roots in New York, she presently lives and
works in York, PA.

Seattle designer Shamila Jiwa of

“M


tr


a


De

Shamila Jiwa
Rings
Peach and gray moonstone
PHOTO: COURTESY SHAMILA JIWA

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2019 35

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