ELLE.COM/UK September 2O19 247
ELLEBeauty
(It creates that super-modern elastic-skin kind-of effect. And
keeps the complexion zit-free.) Oh yes, and Biafine – the miracle
of lip balms, which sloughs and quenches in one. And, finally,
Oscillococcinum. Beauty editors buy this homeopathic wonder in
bulk to keep Fashion Week flu at bay.
Don’t spend your money on skincare. Spend it
on SPF – 8O% of ageing is caused by the sun,
which means no amount of anti-ageing night cream
is going to make a dent if you’re not protecting
your face. Your SPF will only work for two hours
max, and please don’t forget the tops of your ears
- it’s the most common place to get skin cancer,
simply because we ignore them.
Retinol is the best skincare ingredient on the market.
Originally prescribed for acne, it is also a miracle
for retexturing and re-energising tired skin. I’ve
been using prescription Ketrel for years and I’m
convinced that, apart from SPF, it’s made the single biggest difference
to my skin. But shopping for it is a minefield; the type of retinol and its
percentage are the first thing to consider, while how its formula is buffered
and delivered into skin is your second. Confusing, right? (That’s the
reason I went to the dermatologist for mine.) My rule of thumb is to start
at O.O25% strength and, using it sparingly every third night, work up
your tolerance. La Roche- Posay is my beginner’s choice.
Buy the lightest foundation you can. Skin looks best with less foundation.
I know. It seems counterintuitive. The only formulas to go for are the new
water-based versions, which warm tone and reflect light. For the ‘cover-up’
effect, there is concealer – which I dot between my brows and in the crease
of my chin to take out redness. Full coverage just looks so dated now.
Have a one-in-one-out policy. After all, the skin can’t cope with more
than three active ingredients at any time. It takes at least 12 weeks to see
any real difference – a mask or a moisturiser might give instant effects, but
they are only superficial, whereas a vitamin C or a retinol, for example,
work on a cellular level to transform skin, which can take a few months to
show. A one-in-one-out policy allows you to be scientific about skincare,
and understand which products really do and don’t work on your face.
Use a probiotic serum. Recently, scientists have been reminding us to
safeguard the skin’s protective bacterial balance, aka ‘the microbiome’.
Products, pollution and stress can cause it to become out of whack,
leading to acne, redness and irritation. A probiotic serum feeds skin
with friendly bacteria, so it becomes stronger and more hydrated, while
restoring healthy pH levels. Elizabeth Arden Superstart and Esse Probiotic
Serum, the only live version on the market, are two favourites.
Don’t use oils on your face. Oils will ‘nanny state’ your skin and suffocate
it, slowing down cell turnover so that, eventually, it can’t look after
itself. Yes, an oil might feel instantly soothing, but that’s only skin deep.
Most derms will tell you that oils aggravate acne or rosacea while
they clog and irritate our cells, and can cause
photosensitising and inflammation in the sun. The
worst culprits are coconut and wheatgerm.
Alternate which side you sleep on. The first time
I went to see a cosmetic doctor, he told me to
stop sleeping on my right-hand side. Squashing
my face into my pillow had, over the years, broken
down muscle and weakened collagen to leave
one side far less juicy and shapely. I’ve slept on
my back ever since.
Magnesium is the magic beauty pill. If you can’t
load your diet with enough green leafy veg or
nuts, do your skin a favour and take magnesium
(I take one in the morning, and two at night). It helps muscles relax
and encourages better sleep quality. It also lowers the stress hormone
cortisol, the main culprit for adult acne. The 7O% of us who are deficient
would do well to try versions from Lamberts and BioCare.MAC AMPLIFIED LIPSTICK IN
MORANGE, £17.5O
The ‘ONE’ that finally converted me to
red lipstick. The hot tomato hue looks
great on every skin toneNARS SOFT MATTE
COMPLETE CONCEALER, £24
An insomniac’s essential, this butte
cream melts into skin to instantly eras
bags and blemishes without creasing,
however amateur your fingersseAUGUSTINUS BADER THE
CREAM, £2O5
Nearly every beauty editor I know
has converted to this anti-
inflammatory cream. Try it at night,
alone, for transformed skinFREDERIC
MALLE PORTRAIT
OF A LADY, £16O
FOR 5OML EDP
I’ve lost count of
how many people
have stopped me
in the street when
I wear thisMy high fiv e ALL - TIME FAVOURITES
“OILS WILL
‘NANNY STATE’
YOUR SKIN
and SUFFOCATE
IT, so THAT IT
CAN’T LOOK
AFTER ITSELF ”DIOR DIORSHOW
MA XIMIZER
3D LASH PRIMER, £28
I gave up on lash
extensions (too expensive,
too destructive). Why
bother when there’s this
stretching, thickening
and curling primer?