52 CHICAGO | SEPTEMBER 2019 Photograph by JEFF MARINI
Seven chef driven kitchens.
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Smoke, Fat, Spice
SMALL BATCH BARBECUE
7441 Madison St., Forest Park
Q Hours Lunch Friday to Sunday;
dinner Tuesday to Sunday
QPerfect order Brisket ($6 a quarter pound),
pulled pork ($5 a quarter pound), St. Louis
spareribs ($6 for three), fried okra ($5)Q The gas-powered Southern Pride smok-
er — a heavily cladded convection oven with
a side smoke box — has made it easy for just
about any restaurant to turn out decent ribs
and brisket. But in the hands of a talented
pitmaster like Greg Stinton, it can produce
the kind of pink-tinged, spice-crusted,
smoky-to-the-core ’cue the soul craves.
When Stinton — who used to work in
IT before becoming a barbecue obses-
sive and opening this Forest Park store-
front — says “small batch,” he means it: The
kitchen sells out of choice cuts on most
nights. Get there early enough to try his
long-boned St. Louis spareribs, tingling
with spice, and his tender, pecan-smoke-
kissed brisket, which can be ordered fat or
lean. (Pro tip: Fat is flavor.) The pulled pork
shoulder — soft and rosy here, black and
crusty there — is no slouch, either. Other
meats include house-made pork sausages
and turkey breast. I may even try them if I
ever get my fill of ribs and brisket.
As a first-time restaurateur, Stinton is
learning on the job. For now, the beer list
consists of whatever six-packs he’s picked
up at the Famous Liquors in Forest Park.
“You got the last Corona,” he announces
cheerfully when he brings it to the outdoor
dining ledge. And though the meat is terrific,
his sides aren’t all there yet. The cornmeal-
crusted okra is snackable enough, but the
gluey mac and cheese seems like an Instant
Pot recipe gone bad. The mild-to-hot sauc-
es — some punched up, Chicago-style, with
giardiniera — are uniformly sweet and sticky.
I was hoping for North Carolina style, thin
and vinegary. But as aficionados sometimes
say, this barbecue is so good, it doesn’t
need sauce. — JOHN KESSLERBUDGET PICKSpareribs