Country Style – September 2019

(Axel Boer) #1
MARYQUANT
JennyLister,V&APublications,$59.99

BeforeMaryQuantburstuponthe
British,andsubsequentlyglobal
fashionscene,inthe1960swomenin
their20sdressedliketheirmothersin
twin-sets,pearlsandtweedskirts.
Quant’sclotheswerearchitectural,
mostlyinneutralnaturalfabrics,
althoughsheusedshinyblackPVCwith
greatpanache.Asshesaidherself,
thesestarkcreations“werecuriously
feminine”.Alongwitha fewother
mavericksontheKingsRoad,Chelsea,
sheinventedtheminiskirt.Her
co-creatorofanentirelynewbreedof
womenwasVidalSasson,thebrutalist
hairdresserwhocouldmakeeventhe
mostwinsomemodellookasifshewas
staring out from under the blade of

a guillotine.Herfamewashelpedby
peppyinterviews.ShetoldThe
Guardianthatshedyedherpubichair
greenandherhusbandtrimmeditwith
nailscissorsintotheshapeofa heart.
AyearagoLondon’sVictoriaand
AlbertMuseumsentouta callfor
survivingQuantoriginals.They
showedthecollectionthisyearand
includedaccessories,homewaresand
hersignaturebrandofcosmetics.Mary
Quantgaveusa lookthatboththrilled
andintimidatedmen.Adecadelater
GermaineGreerprovidedthesolid
argumentsforwhyweshouldstop
wantingtobelikeladies.Lister’s
bookisaboutthechangeswroughtby
clothesalone.In 2015 theQueenmade
the85-year-oldrebela Dameand
apparently Quant was well chuffed.

WORKING
RobertA.Caro,BodleyHead,$49.99

ThesecretofmanagingChristmas,
budget wise, is to start buying presents

earlyon.I’vepickedthisoneforyour
mostintellectualfriend,orfor
a journalist.Caroisa historian.
Whenhewasunabletofinishhisfirst
commissionedbiographyintime,his
wifeInasoldtheirhousesotheycould
affordtocarryon.Inthefullnessof
timeCarofoundanagentwhoswitched
himtoa publisherwhogivesCaroall
thetimehewants.Hisfive-volume
biographyofLBJ,TheYearsofLyndon
Johnson, hastaken 40 yearsandthe
lastvolumeisstillgestating.Carois
83.Hetooktimeofftowriteandcurate
thiscollectionofpiecesabouthowhe
works.Everyjournalistknowsthe
agonyofgoingtopresswiththejuiciest
morselstillunverifiedandtherefore
omitted.Inthebadolddaysreaders
knewwhena reporterwasjoiningup
thedots.Thesedaysyoucangotogaol
forjusta whiffofbraggadocio.Carois
extreeeeeeeme. Tobecertainhe’dgot
LBJ’searlyyearsright,heandthe
ever-obligingInawenttoliveforthree
years in the middle of nowhere, close

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A SUMPTUOUSSPREADTHISMONTH—TRYTOCLEARSOMETIMEAWAYFROMTHE
USUALHOUSEHOLDDEMANDS TO DO JUSTICE TO THESE DEEPLY SATISFYING AUTHORS.
REVIEWSANNABEL LAWSON
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