In June 2001 an event occurred that
undoubtedly changed Nepal forever. King
Birendra and most of his family were
assassinated, most probably by his son
Dipendra. Doubts remain about the killing
spree, but its outcome has impacted the
country ever since. The changes that have
occurred in the last ten years are staggering.
Much of the valley has been built on, as the
demand for better and more housing has
gobbled up the once pristine countryside.
Roads have been widened, traditional
houses have had to make way for modern
amenities, some temples have almost fallen
into disrepair. Kathmandu is a metropolitan
city, while Patan and Bhaktapur are really
suburbs. The earthquakes of spring 2015
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houses and many temples suffered severe
damage. (20) Three and a half years
later, some are yet to be restored, even in
Kathmandu Durbar Square.Despite all the massive changes, there
remains a strange and addictive magnetism.
For sure the valley has lost much of its
charm, but here and there are quiet corners
where life has changed little since those
heady days of the 1970s. Around Kathmandu
Durbar Square, and throughout the old
city in barely noticed lanes, a few ancient
houses and courtyards remain, enough to
recapture the atmosphere of days long gone.
The best preserved of the traditional cities
is Bhaktapur, where efforts to retain the
original style and atmosphere have endured.
(21) Even in Patan Durbar Square it’s easy to
experience the historic ambience of the city.
However, taking time to absorb the scenes is
vital. In the modern world, so little time is
given to contemplation.Apart from the obvious temples and shrines
of the valley, perhaps one of the greatest
attractions to experience today is the plethora
of traditional festivals, which occur throughout
the year. Tibetan communities and Buddhistscelebrate their New Year – Losar – in late
winter (January/February) at monasteries
around the valley. Another festival
celebrates the White Machhendranath
in Kathmandu, again the idol is ferried
around the narrow lanes of the old city
in a crescendo of riotous pandemonium.
(22) In April the Nepalese New Year’s
festivities begin with a chariot procession
in Bhaktapur. This is soon followed by
more exuberant celebration when the Red
Machhendranath idol is moved in a tall,
swaying chariot between Bungamati and
Patan. (23) & (24) Electric cables have to be
removed before the chariots can negotiate
the narrow streets, brushing past tall
buildings.Also in spring is the colourful Holi festival,
one to be wary of perhaps, as multi-
coloured powder dyes are thrown with
great abandon. The autumn has its share of
festivals during the main trekking season,
with Dasain, the longest celebration, and
the more mellow Tihar that follows, offering
visitors two contrasting experiences.It’s a shame that so many visitors to
Kathmandu these days have little or no
time to see the real delights of the valley;
the temples, monasteries and stupas, the
bazaars of the old city, the cultural aspects
and the friendly welcoming local people.
For many, the dust, pollution and heaving
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Perhaps the city will follow the trend set
in Pokhara, where dusty roads are almost
absent and the Lakeside area is more
tourist-friendly. For those who harp back
to the old Kathmandu that is no more,
PHPRULHVZLOOKDYHWRVXIÀFH“There’s a green-eyed yellow idol to the north
of Kathmandu...”LVWKHÀUVWOLQHRIDSRHP
by J. Milton Hayes that perhaps captures
the ambience of those long gone days. But
where is that green-eyed yellow idol today?VALLEY OF THE GREEN-EYED YELLOW IDOL
54 | TRAVEL HIMALAYA SPRING 2019 http://www.himalayamagazine.com