from a farm but are separated from it. Here we
try to grow it, and use small suppliers, which
comes with more responsibility. We must get
the right product not just any product – and
then look after it. How much you know about
it is also important.”
He was a butcher for two years at Ryan
Boon Speciality Meats in Paarl, and having
worn the shoes of a supplier forms the
backbone to his cooking. He understands the
demands that chefs impose on suppliers, and
does his utmost to work with them and use
what's available.
“We are flexible to changes as per their
needs. This way, my suppliers form the catalyst
to my menu changes and inspiration. If all
ingredients were available to me all the time,
I wouldn't know where to begin planning
a menu, there would be no focus on important
seasonal produce, and the entire process would
be an unnatural digression into a confused
hypocritical mishmash.”
David worked with co-owner Liam Tomlin
at Chefs Warehouse & Canteen in Bree Street
and Beau Constantia, but feels that at Maison
he has progressed to demonstrate his talent for
robust, layered flavours and plating finesse.
He prides himself on making the most of
ingredients – olive brine, whey and other
by-products are used to perfection.
He makes his own bread, butter, charcuterie
and cheese, and cuts his own meat. “Time is the
best ingredient,” he says, and applauds produce
from the local valley, like Franschhoek trout.
Known as a trailblazer in the valley for
reducing unnecessary kitchen waste, David
became innovative during the recent drought.
“We try to use everything.” Instead of adding
precious water to recipes, they use extract
liquid in the form of whey, animal fat, juice
and sometimes even pigs’ blood. Parmesan
rinds are infused into oils and there is a smoked
Parmesan-rind milk foam on the menu. Bones
and offcuts are used in stocks, blanching water
is recycled for washing, and rinsing water is
returned to the garden.
“Whey is a fantastic by-product. We use it
in dressings, reductions, glazes, risotto bases,
fermentations, batters, and are discovering moreways to adapt it into our day-to-day cooking.”
He explains that butter is often substituted for
beef tallow, and olive oil for chicken fat (where
the recipe need not be adaptable for vegetarians,
vegans, or pescatarians). Any meat that has sat
too long in the fridge is cured, hung, smoked
and dried. This creates added-value products
to ingredients otherwise thrown away or given
to staff.
“We do not buy micro herbs, but use
foraged leaves and flowers from our garden
and the hills surrounding our restaurant and
the Berg River dam. Here the community of
chefs works together. We have, with Darren
Badenhorst of Le coin Français, started
growing our own mushrooms.”
His stint in a butchery has not gone toABOVE: There is a camaraderie between David and his team – Ntombizabantu Mbiko (left) and Cynthia
Nombuyiselo Ntshewyla. BOTTOM LEFT: Enter slowly, the animals will come to greet you. BOTTOM RIGHT:
This team cooks as one, their unity creates success. From left Bentry Mwandelile, Carine Smith, David Schneider,
Jana Patheletu, Saidi Allih, Nqatyiswa Veronica Nyobole, Josphat Chipfupi, Manika Harduth and Saskia Eeck.