doubthopingwemightexpire.Theywereleft
disappointedaswereturnedto thetrail,slowly
makingourwaythroughgrassymeadowsin
theshadowofthemightyDrakensberg.
ThroughtheofficialborderbetweenSouth
AfricaandLesothowepassed,to findit now
nothingmorethana rustyoldfence,and
continueduponswitchbacktrailsthrough
swathesofprettyflowers.
“It’slovelyuphere,”saidMia,whohadnow
cheerfullyresignedherselfto a sedatepace.
“Andso,soquiet.”Yesthere’ssomethingto
besaidaboutridingthroughthewildernesson
horseback.Nosorefeetandonlythesoundsof
silence.Andthoseviews,liketowardssundown
whenwecresteda saddlein themountainpeaks
andwererewardedwitha magnificentview
ofthehilly,greenworldthatis ruralLesotho.
Rondavelspeppereda landscapeoftilled
slopes,andbetweenthemwanderedsheep,
horsesandgoats.Childrendressedin the
signatureLesothoblanketswavedandgreeted
usasweambledintoThamatuvillage.
DuncanandNikkiStewartofThamatu
Lodgewerewaitingto welcomeus.Thelodge
is builtontheveryedgeofSehlabathebe,
Lesotho’sonlynationalpark,andwasour
homeforthenextthreenights.
“Wewantedourcampto fitintothe
surroundings,andbuiltit in thelocalstyle,”
saidDuncan,asCharleswentaboutuntacking
ourhorses.A largefirewasalreadyonthego,
andin thekitchentwolocalladieswerebusy
bakingpotbread.
“Weemployedresidentmasonsto cutthe
stoneandbringusthebricks,andwehauled
in roofthatchbythebakkieload.It’stakenus
a fewyearsto geteverythingupandrunning,but now it’s more or less complete.”
The lodge is an authentic-looking set of
rondavels which, from the outside, look pretty
much the same as all the other huts in the
village, although inside they have plastered
walls, modern fittings and comfortable beds.
Around the fire that evening, we enjoyed
steak and wine while Duncan and Steve gave
us some background to the camp. “I’ve been
running horse trails into Lesotho for more than
a decade,” said Steve, “but we have always
needed reliable and comfortable lodging for
hikers and riders.” Duncan chipped in that his
background was rural development projects.
“So we partnered up and I took on the job of
developing what you see here. It’s an end-of-the-
road destination, and a great base for exploring.”
Next morning we gave our horses (and our
posteriors) a bit of a break and set off on footABOVE: Mia Morris contemplates taking a swim in
a rock pool, but changes her mind because the water
is freezing. ABOVE RIGHT: Steve Black, owner of
Khotso, has been exploring Lesotho for as long as he
can remember. RIGHT: Sometimes horseriding can be
exhausting, especially for the uninitiated like young
Sam Morris, recovering here after a tumble. His sister
Mia looks less than impressed.
http://www.countrylife.co.za 027 September 2019