smile.“Mosesdoesnotcomeanymore,”
hesayswitha shruganda laugh.Theboozy,
bar-counterstainshavevanished,sandedand
polishedaway,bringinga heartynewcheerto
thepub.Thehotel,builtin 1900,feelsold,in
a kindofEnglishmanor-houseway,a lounge
witholdcouchesandheavycurtains,a crackling
fireburning,a warmwelcome.
I photographa waitresswitha beautyof
braidsdownto herwaistandtwocellphones
in herpockets.MyCanonfindsdelightsaround
a complexoframblingspaces,oldgroup
photographs,passages,a sandstone-walled
diningroom,potplants,gardencottages,
outdoortablesanda swimmingpool.
Betweenit all,tallpinoaksgrowproudly,
shadingthespiritsofallthetravellersthat
havepassedthroughhereovertheyears.In
themorning,myeyesdelightat a wondrous
Englishbreakfast.“HolyMoses,”I sigh,
drooling.“Sorry,hecheckedoutagesago,”
myCEO,assistantandwifequips.“And
you’requitefat.”
A daylater,aftera longdriveovervastrural
landscapes,weenterGrahamstown,thecityof
SaintsandSinners.I lecturedphotographyhere,
forwhat, 18 years?Themerethoughtofthis
enormousstageofmylifemakesmewantto be
a littleyounger,a littlemoresinfulagain.Along
MainStreet,Lynntellsmeto stopsmiling.
Thecityis nowcalledMakhandaandthe
varsitytownis abuzzwithpeopleandcars,the
streetsdentedwithenormouspotholes.Gone,
forgottenandclosedaretheGrandandthe
TOPLEFT:Sometimes I take pictures
andsometimesI make pictures.
LEFT:LondiweDlangisa and
NcamsileMajozi,thetwo cooks at
theHimevilleArms,are ready and
posingbeforeI canbounce a flash
againstthekitchenceiling. BELOW:
A creeperworksitsyears of growth
aroundthewarmthand comfort of
thereadingloungeatthe Himeville
Arms.BOTTOM:Winter stillness and
a streetofpinoaktrees checkmates
a chessgamearound the pool.http://www.countrylife.co.za 043COUNTRY HOTELS TRAVEL