South African Country Life – September 2019

S

tripping down to our bathing

costumes, we stuff our backpacks

into waterproof bags and stand on

the edge of the 100-metre-wide

Mkweni River. A group of local kids

eyes us quizzically. “We waded through last

time,” apologises our guide Garth Robinson,

after reconnoitring the crossing. “It was only

waist deep.” The water is deep, brown and

swirling, but at least we are here on an

incoming tide, and will be swept upstream

to Mthatha rather than out to Mozambique.

“Don’t Zambezi sharks breed in these river

estuaries?” asks Matthew Holt unhelpfully.

While some of us debate the breeding habits of

sharks, Theo Calitz plunges in and practises his

butterfly. Our supposedly mild slackpacking

trail along the Pondoland coast is becoming

wet and wild.

Just getting to this remote, inaccessible,

northern part of the Wild Coast has been an

adventure. Recent heavy rains have scoured

deep dongas in the road, testing the skill of the

local bakkie driver that transferred us from the

N2 to Mtentu Lodge, a quaint, rustic abode on

the bank of the same-named river.

The next morning we were due to set off on

the first leg of the four-day trail, a seemingly

modest 14-kilometre hike from Mtentu to

Msikaba. The weather forecast was reasonably

good, but as we sheltered from lashing rain, big

waves rolled into the estuary. The crossing was

going to be interesting.

“That’s the Wild Coast for you,” said lodge

thestorms,andtherockscoveredwithwild

oysters.I gazedupat theforestedvalleyand

wishedI hadmoretimeto explorebefore

movingon.

Wehadjoineda six-stronggroupfromthe

CapeWinelands,puttogetherbyHilldidge

BeeronthisWildChildAfricatrail.Hilldidge

combinedTeutonicefficiencywithTroubadour

clothing,andherpartydidn’tlookthemost

practisedhikers.Andit wasn’tlongbefore

Matthewwasofferinglongoddsthateveryone

wouldcompletethe65-kilometreroute.

PetiteJeanLubbewaskeento findexcuses

to clingto ourHerculeanguide,whileNoleen

manager Allan Hein. “The weatherman often

gets it horribly wrong. This coastline is known

for its freak waves.”

We spent the next couple of hours studying

maps and literature on the area, popping out

between squalls to check the conditions –

white horses still evident – and to inspect the

Pondoland coconut (aka the Mkambati Palm

Tree) that grows only on northern banks of the

Mtentu and Msikaba rivers.

Finally we set off down the slippery, rocky

path to the river, and into waiting canoes that

carried us safely across. The beaches were

littered with natural debris washed up in

LEFT: Attempts to keep our feet dry are futile. Guide

Garth Robinson helps Noleen de Jongh across the

grasslands that have been transformed into swamps.

ABOVE: Hilldidge Beer (left) and Jean Lubbe inspect

one of the many natural, rock gardens on the walk.

BELOW: Our lunch spot on the first day was in the

sheltered Baboon Cave.

September 2019 080 http://www.countrylife.co.za