fabrics that aren’t quite so environmentally questionable. These include lab-grown leather, which is being
spearheaded by biofabrication companies such as Modern Meadow. Elsewhere, there’s Pinatex, a leather
alternative made from the cellulose fibre of pineapple leaves that was recently used by H&M in its latest
Conscious Collection.
But there is development happening in the real leather trade as well.
Rachel Garwood, director at the Institute for Creative Leather Technologies at the University of
Northampton, tells The Independent genuine leather is nowadays far more environmentally friendly than
faux alternatives. “It ticks all the boxes for a sustainable material. The problem leather has is that it retains
the stigma of historical production methods,” she says, pointing to contemporary methods used by modern
tanneries – such as vegetable tanning – that are far less harmful than previous chemical-based processes
involved in leather production.
“Chemical companies and tanners are working closely with brands to offer reassurance of the clean
technology and ethics in leather manufacturing,” Garwood adds, noting that various initiatives such as the
Leather Working Group (LWG) rate tanneries on their environmental and ethical practices that help
retailers and brands to better identify good practice in their supply chain.
Matt Stockamp, impact associate at US-based footwear brand Nisolo, is constantly trying to improve his
supply chain to ensure the leather he uses is ethically sourced and durable. “We know that a lot of our
leather comes from farms in the US and northern Mexico,” he tells The Independent. “The majority of our
tanneries are also certified by the LWG for their social and environmental practices, which includes a
regular, thorough inspection of their water treatment facilities. Diving further into this is an ongoing
priority of ours for 2019.” Nisolo’s leather products are designed to last for many years, Stockamp adds.
“We’ll need to conduct thorough testing to make sure that any vegan materials also meet our brand’s
standards for quality and longevity.”
If you want to invest in a real, long-lasting leather garment but you’re not sure about the company’s supply
chain, Leigh Mcalea, head of communications at anti-waste organisation Traid tells The Independent the
best way forward it to forget about buying something new altogether. Instead, she advises championing
circularity by making the most of the ample secondhand options available at charity and vintage
shops: “Choosing secondhand displaces the loss of life to animals, environmental destruction and worker
exploitation.”