Model Military International – September 2019

(Grace) #1
24 Model Military International - September 2019

FEATURE ARTICLE Tasca / Asuka1:35 Sherman III Mid Production (w/Cast Driver’s Hood) • Kit No 35018


RESICAST’S SHERMAN MK.III DEEP WADING CONVERSION
Resicast offers two separate Sherman Mk.III
Deep Wading conversions – one for the Dragon
kits and a later release for Tasca. I actually have
both, but the Tasca Sherman is easier to build
and marginally more accurate, so I opted for
Tasca.
Resicast’s Sherman Mk.III Deep Wading
Conversion is made up from resin and photo-
etched parts. The main resin parts are for the
chunky rear stack mount, optional covered and
uncovered engine deck mount for the second
stack, alternative covered mantlets (early
narrow and later wide), replacement gun barrel
and covers for the end, covered hull machine
gun plus caps for the hull vents.
Additional resin parts are offered for
turnbuckles and other mounting hardware.
The parts are perfectly cast with just a wafer
of resin waste on some. Casting blocks are
pretty straightforward too.
The large photo-etched fret includes the tall
wading trunks, the frames and mesh.

GETTING UNDERWAY – RUNNING GEAR
Before the conversion work begins, most of the
model can be built.
By far the most fiddly aspect of Tasca’s
Shermans is the suspension. On the upside
though, the suspension units are superbly
detailed and they fit perfectly. You just need to
stay organised and take your time.
Tasca supply the mid-style bogies with this
straight arms for the return rollers. Tasca
has cleverly designed these bogies to be fully

workable. The four main suspension arms and
the rockers on each unit are separate parts that
may be left free to move. The really clever part
is the inclusion of a spongy rubber mat, which
is designed to be cut up and inserted in the top
of the bogie. This will offer some resistance but
still allows the suspension arms to rock (or to
drop when unsprung), just like the real thing.
The only tiny problem is that Tasca provides
flexible vinyl tracks. The tension of these might
not permit much movement of the bogies.
Individual track links will be a better option if
you wish to depict your Sherman in action over
rough terrain, but do keep in mind that the
“live” T51 track will not sag on the top run.
In my case, I was planning to sit the finished
Sherman on a flat surface so I did not need – nor
indeed want – the suspension to be workable.
Jim Wechsler backdated Tasca’s Sherman II
to the T6 prototype in Issue 46 of MMI. In his
article he pointed out that the early suspension
arms needed a minor modification from the way
the parts were moulded.
In this instance, however, I simply assembled
the units and glued the pieces in place to
prevent movement.
Before assembling the suspension units, I
roughed up the tyres on the road wheels. The
first step was to mount each wheel in turn on a
toothpick and randomly run a small dental burr
in my Dremel motor tool over the outside of the
plastic part. The result was pretty extreme at
this stage, but a quick once-over with a coarse
sanding stick settled the effect down to a more
realistic level.

All the suspension parts were cut off
their sprues and cleaned up with a knife and
sanding stick. Take care when assembling the
suspension arms and the road wheels that the
grease nipples face outward. With Steps 4 and 5
complete, these sub-assemblies were set aside
to dry thoroughly overnight before returning to
complete the bogies.
I spent a few puzzled minutes trying to
figure out why the two suspension arms would
not both fit onto their locating pins inside
the bogies. I finally figured out that the arms
interlock in the middle, and that the right arm
must be positioned first.
I also glued the rockers to the main
suspension arms. This locked everything into
place. The first time I fitted the front cover
(Part B3) to a bogie it took a few moments of
fiddling, but it eventually snapped into position.
A little Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement along
the join lines and the job was finished.

LOWER HULL
Tasca has moulded their lower hull in a multi-
part flat pack. Presumably, this allows for the
maximum detail to be moulded to the outside
surfaces of the parts, results in less moulding
marks and permits more options for different
hulls. However, it does mean a bit more work
for the modeller. Fortunately, it is not much
more work.
The instructions suggest the sequence of
assembly, and it worked a treat for me.
First, the nose joining strip (Part J24) was
glued to the bottom of the hull, followed by the

workable. The four main suspension arms and workable. The four main suspension arms and
the rockers on each unit are separate parts that

All the suspension parts were cut off
their sprues and cleaned up with a knife and

workable. The four main suspension arms and

The drive sprockets and idler
wheels are held in place with
clear polythene caps.

The tyres were roughed up with a coarse
sanding stick. This had the additional benefit of
removing the circumferential raised seam line.

One road wheel with its two suspension arm halves.
Note that I have marked the front of the road wheel
with a black marker to avoid mix-ups!

All the parts required
for a single suspension
unit, including three foam
rectangles cut according
to the instructions.

Assembling the units takes a bit of fiddling.
A clamp is helpful to hold the parts in place
as the glue dries.

B
Free download pdf