CentralHighlands,andwhenyoureturnafteraday’s
exploringyou’llfindpademelons(notquitea
wallabybutnotakangarooeither)grazingonthe
groundsatsunset.
Intheeveningthereareboardgamesandanhonesty
bartowhileawaythehoursbythefire,andbackin
yourroomyoucanpouralocalpinottosipasyousift
throughyourphotographsofthewildernessorbrowse
thethoughtfulselectionofTasmanianliteratureand
coffeetablebooksonthecoffeetable.
Afteraheartyhighlandbreakfastofeggs,homemade
bakedbeansandmoreofthatfreshlybakedbread,the
nextmorningIhopinthecartothequainthistoric
townofEvandale,awindingandpicturesquetwo-hour
driveaway.HometoTheGloverPrizeandtheNational
PennyFarthingChampionship,EvandaleisaNational
Trust-classifiedGeorgianvillagedottedwithunspoilt
churches,belltowersandinns,andcaneasilybe
exploredinhalfadayofwanderingitsquietstreets
armedwithaHeritageWalkbookletfromtheEvandale
Community&InformationCentre.
Whenitcomestoretailtherapy,Evandale’schief
attractionisitstreasuretroveofantiquestoresstaffedbyMy room is in the Shorehouse, a former substation,
and is decorated in elevated Boy Scout style with
Tasmanian oak furniture, charcoal carpet and linens,
with toasty underfloor heating in the bathroom.
I tumble in after my attempts at fly fishing and
discover panoramic views of the lake and the surrounding
snow-covered peaks of Cradle Mountain, along with a
larder groaning with Tasmanian produce such as roasted
salmon, triple cream brie and pork rillettes, and a minibar
stocked with Tasmanian pinots and sparkling wine as crisp
as the temperature of Lake St Clair. I tear myself away
from the lure of a deep bath and the softest of beds for
a quick shower before heading downstairs to the shared
lounge, which is decorated in mid-century style with a
roaring wood fire as its centrepiece.
Dinner is a communal experience, allowing for
conversations about fishing, hiking and relaxing with
fellow guests over a meal that might include free-range
Marion Bay chicken, leek and potato soup and warm
lemon and apple pudding; or perhaps roast lamb with
pink-eye potatoes and broccoli and a sweet finish such as
coconut-lemon tart, all sourced from nearby Coal River
Farm. For those who are still hungry, a loaf of freshly baked
crusty bread can be delivered to your room at any time of
the day, and will arrive in 20 minutes to enjoy with the
provisions in your minibar.
The following day begins with a morning hike winding
along one of the many trails around the foreshore of the
lake and up high into the mountains. The brisk air and
otherworldly landscapes are intoxicating and calming all
at once, with other activities to connect you with nature
including canoeing or bike riding around the property,
with dinghies also available if you’d simply prefer to drift
about exploring hidden coves, perhaps with a picnic
packed by the Pumphouse Point kitchen.
In the nearby Derwent Bridge area, artist Greg
Duncan’s The Wall in the Wilderness is an intricately
carved timber mural depicting the history of Tasmania’sCLOCKWISE FROM
RIGHT: The glow of the
Retreat; Evandale is a
treasure trove of antiques;
You’ll find Lake St Clair
in the Central Highlands;
A stay at Pumphouse
Point is a unique
wilderness experience.
OPPOSITE (clockwise
from top left): A cosy
nook at Pumphouse Point;
The quirky Clarendon
Arms dates back to 1847 ;
Some rooms at Pumphouse
Point boast sumptuous
deep bathtubs; Evandale’s
historic streetscape.
PHOTOGRAPHY: ADAM GIBSON (THE RETREAT, BATHTUB); ROSIE HASTIE (EVANDALE X4)