divEr 50
an abundance of tunicates, algae and
sponges shrouded the rock-faces.
Endemic orange cup corals added a
splash of colour, along with harpoon
weed (a red algae), tiny anemones and
various species of hydroid.W
HAT ASTONISHEDwas the volume
of fish life. Isolated islands such as
St Helena are magnets for undersea life.
The Benguela Current meets the cool
waters of the South Atlantic Gyre there,
resulting in a fusion of western and
eastern Atlantic and circumtropical
species. The island’s isolation has resulted
in a variety of endemic species.
Astonishingly prolific were St Helena
butterflyfish, in shoals that could engulf
divers. Reviewing my photos later, what
appeared to be strobe backscatter was
actually near-infinite numbers of fish!
Fluffy bearded fireworms scuttled
across rock-faces while large spotted
scorpionfish were imperceptible, as I
discovered when I nearly put my hand on
one! Squirrelfish and blackbar soldierfish
mingled under ledges and overhangs, as
spotted morays peered, mouths agape.What appeared to be two species of
parrotfish was actually one. The strigate
parrotfish goes through two colour
phases; the smaller yellow versions are
believed to be females and the larger dull
purple-grey individuals males.
More elusive were hedgehog
butterfly fish, distinctively patterned with
a chocolate-brown head and lower half,
and white above. Green and hawksbill
turtles are both present, though there
have been no records of successful nesting
on the island.
A short boat-ride away is the Bedgellet,
one of eight diveable wrecks. Brought
from the UK to salvage another wreck,
the Papa Nui, it broke loose from its
moorings during a storm, damaging itself
as well as other boats. In 2001 the
government sank it as an artificial reef
near Long Ledge on the south coast.
Resting upright at 18m, the vessel is
another magnet for fish life. Schools of
butterflyfish swarmed upper decks
encrusted with growth.
Below, glasseye snappers and island
hogfish flashed crimson as they flitted
between the numerous openings. DuringRight: Main Street,
Jamestown.Below: Chilean devil rays
at Sugar Loaf.Bottom: Whale sharks
assemble in numbers at
St Helena for five months
in the Southern
Hemisphere summer.rockfalls. Painted on the bare rock were
the words “Welcome RMS St Helena”,
with the newer “Farewell RMS St Helena
2017” alongside.
Everyone was gathered at 9am to
assemble their gear. Two groups were
going in two RIBs, downright chaotic by
St Helena standards! Getting aboard
proved tricky, stepping down onto the
RIB as it pitched in the relentless surf.
Fortunately, numerous helping hands
ensured that divers and gear boarded
safely. With Anthony’s dad Larry at the
helm, we set out for Lighter Rock, 20
minutes’ away east of James Bay.
Plunging into the water revealed
dramatic seascapes echoing the craggy
terrain above, with huge boulders and
sheer rock-faces honeycombed with caves,
archways and overhangs.
Visibility was exceptional, at times
approaching nearly 50m, doubtless due
to the lack of run-off sediment. Water
temperature was a comfortable 25°C, my
5mm suit providing ample warmth.
Reef-building corals were absent but