51 divErthe safety stop, sergeant-majors and ocean
surgeonfish foraged together among the
rocks in a billowing mass. It was hard to
believe we were the only divers there!
The rest of the week was spent
exploring sites mostly along the island’s
north-west coast. Conditions roughened,
so we missed out on some shallower sites
and wrecks, but there was still plenty to
discover. Striking was Long Ledge, a steep
series of natural formations like the steps
of a colossal undersea temple.
Another favourite was the Frontier
Wreck, a trawler used for cannabis
smuggling before being confiscated by the
government. Sunk as an artificial reef in
1994, it rests in 27m, partly toppled on its
side, with the corroding frame resembling
the ribs of a long-dead whale.
Along with the butterflyfish, St Helena
white seabream swarmed in abundance
along with St Helena sharpnose puffers,
island cowfish and St Helena wrasse. I was
too engrossed in the big picture to look
for the nudibranchs and lobsters.
A
NOTHER DAY,we dived a pair of
west-coast sites near the airport.
Sugar Loaf and Barn Cap had visibility in
excess of 40m. The almaco jack were
especially curious, often approaching
divers, while large ocean triggerfish
proved more wary.
Smaller cousins of the manta, Chilean
devil rays, cruised the open water and we
Above: View from the top of
Jacob’s Ladder.Above right: Jonathan
the tortoise, born six years
before Victoria became
Queen!Below, clockwise from
top left: butterflyfish at
Lighter’s Rock; the Frontier
wreck; the Bedgelletwreck.saw seven over the two dives. Other sites
such as Egg Rock, Billy Mayes Revenge
and Torm Ledge all revealed amazing fish
life and superb visibility.
I took an afternoon off for a short tour
to High Knoll Fort, biggest of the island’s
military installations. From its 584m
heights, the island views were spectacular.
Far below nestled Plantation House,
dating from 1792 and home to the
island’s most famous resident, Jonathan.At 188 years old, this tortoise is believed
to be the planet’s oldest living land
creature, and still pretty spry to boot!
But the trip was planned to coincide
with the arrival of some very big visitors.
Between November to March, whale
sharks congregate around the island in
numbers. They can be observed while
diving, but excursions are intended for
snorkellers, with encounters with
individuals limited to 45 minutes.
Participants must remain 3m from the
sharks, with no touching allowed. If only
the sharks were aware of the rules!
Setting out from James Bay, it didn’t
take long for Anthony to find one.
I plunged in with this 8m individual some
15m away at the surface.
It made an abrupt turn and headed in
my direction, and my first sighting of a
whale shark front-on was spellbinding.
Photographing happily, I was unaware
of just how close it was. Looking up, I was
alarmed to see it to be an arm’s lengthdivErNEt.comBIG ANIMAL DIVER
☛