Diver UK – July 2019

BIG ANIMAL DIVER

divEr 52 divErNEt.com

away and manoeuvred frantically to avoid

it. “It wasn’t my fault; I wasn’t even

moving,” I protested to Anthony, who had

been watching the episode from the boat.

“Don’t worry about it,” he chuckled.

We spent the next 40 minutes with the

remarkably tolerant shark. During

encounters in other countries they would

vanish when I entered the water, but not

in St Helena. When they did swim away

pursuit wasn’t necessary, because they

inevitably returned for another look.

They aren’t harassed by fleets of boats,

so I suspect that snorkellers are

a curiosity rather than an annoyance.

We did it again two days later, when

a massive 10m individual proved even

more curious. I got out of its way well in

advance, and it was hands-down the best

encounter I have experienced.

O

N OUR LAST DAYwe took an island

tour with Aaron Legg of Aaron’s

Adventure Tours. Despite its compact

size, the island boasts an extraordinary

range of topography, from grassy plains

and semi-desert to lush forest-clad peaks.

Four-wheel drive proved essential over

the bone-rattling roads.

Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled to St

Helena by the British in 1815, and died

there six years later. Our first stop was

Napoleon’s Tomb, in a beautiful setting in

the Sane Valley. All that was missing was

Napoleon, as his body had been exhumed

and sent back to Paris in 1840.

We moved on to his residence at

Longwood House to hear about the

conspiracy theories surrounding his

death. The official cause was stomach

cancer, but many claim the British

poisoned him. Our guide believed he

succumbed to long-term exposure to

toxins in the wallpaper.

A detour to the coast revealed

dramatic cliffs with spectacular views of

Turk’s Cap and the Barn, formations

seen on our diving excursions.

We also spotted some wirebirds, the

island’s national bird and sole indigenous

bird species.

At the island’s south end, forests of

eucalyptus dominate the landscape,

interspersed with extensive stands of flax,

banana and coffee plantations.

Higher still, tree ferns shroud Diana’s

Peak, the highest point at 818m. Dramatic

formations include twin pillars of rock

called Lot and Lot’s Wife, while Sandy Bay

revealed a black-sand beach, testament to

the island’s volcanic origins. Even after

seven hours we hadn’t seen everything.

T

RAVELLING TO ST HELENApresents

a few challenges. From the UK, it

takes 17 hours of flying plus an overnight

stop in Jo’burg. SA Airlink runs two

flights a week. Baggage is limited to 20kg,

but fortunately an extra 15kg is allowed

for diving equipment. Inform Airlink on

booking and it adds it to your ticket.

It’s best to arrange a package with an

experienced tour company that knows the

island and how it works. I used African &

Oriental Travel Company, which brought

in the very first dive-group by air.

It’s crucial to book a package with

diving included. Island culture has its

own pace and priorities, which can be at

odds with modern tourist sensibilities, so

showing up and trying to arrange diving

could result in disappointment.

There are only two dive operators, and

trips aren’t guaranteed daily.

Also ensure that your international

ticket can be changed, in case the Airlink

flight to Jo’burg is cancelled. And bring a

copy of your medical insurance policy, as

immigration officials will ask for it.

St Helena is a remarkable destination,

like a 1970s time warp or a parallel

universe. In our madcap era of hyper-

connectivity, it offers a wonderful breath

of fresh air. With so many dive locations

worldwide being loved to death, this is

one journey worth taking.

FACTFILE

GETTING THEREMany airlines fly into

Johannesburg. SA Airlink flies to St Helena

twice-weekly, on Saturdays and Tuesdays.

DIVING & ACCOMMODATIONSub-Tropic

Adventures, stadventures.com. Mantis St Helena,

mantissthelena.com

WHEN TO GOYear-round, but the calmest seas

and best vis is from November to early March.

HEALTHVisitors must provide a copy of

medical insurance on arrival. Nearest hyperbaric

chambers are in South Africa.

MONEYSt Helena pound is on par with sterling,

which is accepted everywhere. No ATMs and

credit cards are not widely used.

PRICESAfrican & Oriental Travel Company can

arrange seven-night packages staying B&B at the

Mantis, 10 dives and three whale-shark snorkels

with Sub-Tropic, all flights and transfers, a night

in Jo’burg and a day’s island tour from £2626pp

(two sharing), orientafricatravel.com.

VISITOR INFORMATIONsthelenatourism.com

Clockwise from above:

Odd rock formations at Long

Ledge; almaco jack; at Barn

Gap; a school of soldierfish at

Sugar Loaf; the Mantis Hotel.