importance in Malwa, and has nine gateways and three
palaces. Bhimbetka (46 km) is an architectural treasure,
where paintings in over 500 caves depict the life of
prehistoric cave dwellers. Other historic spots include
Vidhisha (56 km); Delwadi (62 km) and Ginnorgarh
Fort (63 km).
Accommodation. Top-end: Hotel Jelan Numa Palace
(Rs.8,146-8,177 per night); Noor-us-Sabah Palace Hotel
(Rs.5,450-6,140); Hotel Lake View Ashok (Rs.5,700).
Mid-range: Hotel Ranjeet Lake View (Rs.3,400); Hotel
Palash (Rs.5,200). Budget: Hotel Arera Palace; Grand
Hotel; Hotel Jyoti; Hotel Kings; Kwality’s Motel Shiraz
(Rs.2,000-3,500).
GWALIOR
Several dynasties including the great Rajput clans of the
Pratiharas, Kachwahas and Tomars have left an indelible
mark on this city of palaces, temples and monuments (pop.
1.2 million). Gwalior’s tradition of royalty continues with
the Scindias having their dynastic seat here.
Gwalior’s history can be traced back to a piquant
legend. In 8 AD, a chieftain named Suraj Sen was stricken
by a deadly disease. He was cured by a hermit saint called
Gwalipa. In gratitude, the chieftain founded a city which
he named after the saint who had given him the gift of a
new life. Today Gwalior is a vibrant and bustling modern
city.
Its skyline is dominated by the Gwalior Fort, built
on a steep mass of sandstone and venue of momentous
events: imprisonments, battles and jauhars. The Mughal
Emperor Babur described it as “the pearl amongst the
fortresses of Hind”.
Within the fort are marvels of medieval architecture
such as Gujari Mahal, a 15th century monument built
by Raja Mansingh Tomar for his queen Mrignayani. The
interior has been converted into an archaeological museum
with rare antiquities dating back to the first century AD.
Also worth visiting is the Man Mandir Palace, built
between 1486 and 1517 by Raja Mansingh. Underground
are circular dungeons, which once housed state prisoners
of the Mughals including emperor Aurangzeb and his
brother, Murad. Close by is the Jauhar Pond where
queens committed mass sati after their husbands were
defeated in battle.
Teli Ka Mandir and Sas Bahu Ka Mandir are
also a must-see. Soaring to a height of 100 ft, the former
dates back to 1000 AD while the latter was constructed
a hundred years later. Within the fort complex is the
renowned Scindia School, ranked as one of the best
independent primary-secondary schools of the country.
Other monuments worth taking in are Tansen’s
Tomb, housing the remains of the legendary musician,
one of the ‘nine jewels’ of Emperor Akbar’s court. This is
also the venue of a national music festival held annually
in November-December. You could also visit Ghaus
Mohammed’s Tomb and the Sun Temple.
Those interested in doing the rounds of museums and
art galleries can visit Kala Vithika and the Municipal
Museum, as also Sarod Ghar. The latter is a museum
of music in the ancestral house of sarod maestro Ustad
Hafiz Ali Khan.
Excursions. These include Datia (69 km), a town whoseGwalior Fort Surya Mandir, GwaliorGujari Mahal, Gwalior