The Guardian - 08.08.2019

(C. Jardin) #1

Section:GDN 12 PaGe:6 Edition Date:190808 Edition:01 Zone: Sent at 7/8/2019 18:28 cYanmaGentaYellowblac



  • The Guardian
    6
    Thursday 8 August 2019
    Food


W


ith a smile and a
bin liner, Marie
Kondo is about
to descend on
your fridge. An
Instagram story
from her lifestyle brand KonMari.
com yesterday ruled that you should
always keep your fridge 30% empty
for shopping and leftovers. The
appliance they illustrated the rule
with was so comically clean and
colour-coordinated, you wonder
who can live – and shop and cook
and clean – like that.
But from a purely technical
perspective, uncluttering your fridge
has undeniable benefi ts: it ensures
the air can circulate freely, meaning
the temperature stays steady and the
appliance lasts longer. And it allows
you to stay on top of your provisions:
you’ re more likely to use them up in
a timely manner. Lastly, a clean, tidy,
pretty fridge is absurdly calming.
I have long stacked bookshelves
by colour for that reason – why not
chilled produce, too?
So, to break the dream down into
more manageable parts, here is a
guide to fridge hygiene.

1) What is the optimal temperature?
Between 1C and 4C: you want your
food to be kept at 5C or lower. Go
for colder when your fridge is full
or you’ve just packed it with a big
shop on a hot day ; to save on energy,
a little warmer when it is cold and
your fridge is looking a little bare.
(NB: Defrost your freezer when ice is
more than 5mm thick – about once
a year – but don’t allow any in your
fridge as it prevents air circulation
and messes with the appliance’s
inner thermostat.)

2) How often should you clean it,
and with what?
Clear up spillages immediately. Wipe
down the handles daily and, once
a week, the door outside. Check
shelves and containers for anything
lacklustre or out of date – and bin.
Once every three months , empty the
whole thing, take out all removable

milk, yoghurt, meat, fi sh, any
opened product that specifi es
refrigerating once opened. Eggs
need consistent temperatures, so
if you’ve bought them refrigerated,
keep them that way. All veg apart
from those above. Leftovers (as
soon as they have cooled), and
any fresh, ready-to-eat, deli-style
products. Large tubs of nut butters
that you won’t use up quickly –
the cold should keep them from
separating. Open pickles and jams
can be kept in a cool dark cupboard,
as can mustard, syrup, but read the
instructions on the jar. Opened wine


  • even red – should go in the fridge.


5) What goes where?
Top shelf: anything that doesn’t
need cooking (sliced meats, dips,
leftovers, deli dishes, tortilla wraps
etc), as well as the contents of any
unfi nished tin can, decanted into a
clean, lidded container.
Middle shelf: all dairy and eggs –
despite the milk bottle-specifi c door
racks, and door egg-holders , doors
are not the right place for either.
Bottom shelf: meat and fi sh.
Veg drawers: fruit, veg, leaves,
herbs. Lettuce and other greens
(washed, thoroughly dried, wrapped
in paper towel) go in a spinner, their
own container or a veg drawer all to

parts (shelves, drawers, racks) and
wash with hot water and a little
washing-up liquid (never bleach or
any non-foodsafe chemical cleaners).

3) What should not be in there?
Most fruit (including tomatoes
and cucumbers) should be kept at
room temperature and out of the
sun – especially any that need to
ripen; farm eggs you’ve bought at
room temperature; and a lot of veg
(potatoes, carrots, onions, garlic,
winter squashes, beets, and other
roots, including ginger).
Don’t store opened tin cans – once
open to the air, the tin from the can
can transfer more quickly to the can’s
contents. Only cans that come with
resealable lids are fi ne to keep in the
fridge. Decant leftovers (see below).
Don’t refrigerate hot food: wait
for it to cool completely , to avoid
contamination and messing up
your fridge temperature. Products
past their “use-by” date or not
fi nished within the “once opened”
timeframe belong in the bin. Finally,
bread: Serious Eats once published
a 1,164-word article detailing why
refrigeration ruins bread; read it, or if
life’s too short, just trust me.

4) And what should?
Ripened fruit, citrus, all berries,

Chill out! A


guide to the


perfect fridge


How cold should


it be? How often


should you clean it?


And is it safe to keep


open tins? By Dale


Berning Sawa


Kim-Joy


bakes


You might not expect penguin
biscuits to contain chilli, but these
do. It pairs well with the creamy
ganache , but you could leave it out if
you don’t like spice. The biscuits are
quick to decorate – and delicious.

Cream together the butter and caster
sugar in a bowl. Sift in the cocoa and
chilli powder. Add the fl our, then use
your hands to combine into a ball.
Roll out the dough on a lightly
fl oured surface. Stamp out about 24
round biscuits and arrange on two
baking trays lined with greaseproof
paper. Stamp out a smaller circle at
the bottom of half of the biscuits.
Place the baking trays in the fridge to
chill for 30 minutes and preheat the
oven to 160C (140C fan)/ gas mark 3.
Bake for 12 to 15 minutes. Be
careful not to overbake them (it is
harder to tell with chocolate biscuits,
as they are already brown ).
Whil e the biscuits bake, prepare
the ganache. Chop the chocolate
into small pieces and place in a bowl.
Heat the double cream until it starts
to bubble at the edges, then pour
over the chocolate. Leave for two
minutes, then stir until the chocolate
has melted. If the chocolate has not
melted, return to a low heat and stir
until it has. Set aside the ganache to
cool (you can put it covered in the
fridge to speed this up). When cool,
add the grated orange rind , then use
an electric whisk to beat until fl uff y.
When the biscuits are baked,
leave them on the baking trays for
fi ve minutes, then transfer to a wire
rack to cool further. Sandwich the
biscuits together with the ganache.
Make the royal icing. Use an
electric whisk to combine the icing
sugar and egg white until smooth.
Separate into three bowls. Colour
one orange, one black and leave one
white. Transfer to piping bags and
use to create eyes, wings and feet.
Baking with Kim-Joy: Cute and
Creative Bakes to Make You Smile is
published by Quadrille on 22 August.
To order a copy for £15.84 (RRP £18),
go to guardianbookshop.com or call
0330 333 6846

Prep
Biscuits 15 mins
Ganache 10 mins
Icing 10 mins
Baking 12-15 mins
Makes 12

Ingredients
For the biscuits
200g salted butter
100g caster sugar
40g cocoa powder
⅓ tsp chilli powder
230g plain flour

For the ganache
220g white
chocolate
140g double cream
Zest of 1 medium
orange

For the icing
105g icing sugar
20g egg white
Gel food dyes,
orange and black

Chocolate and chilli penguins


with orange-fl avoured ganache


Put an open
container of
bicarbonate in the
bottom to deal with
odours

The temperature
should be below 5C

Keep milk on the
middle shelf – not
in the door – and
meat and fi sh on
the bottom shelf

Thetemp
hould bebelow5C

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