Section:GDN 1J PaGe:9 Edition Date:190808 Edition:01 Zone: Sent at 7/8/2019 17:46 cYanmaGentaYellowblac
Thursday 8 August 2019 The Guardian •
9
Ramallah, my home city, has been
transformed during its half-century
of struggle against Israeli occupation.
But what has really been achieved?
By Raja Shehadeh
I
t must already be 8am, I think, as I listen to
the national anthem blasting out of St George’s
school near my house in Ramallah. I am
standing at the bathroom sink, manoeuvring
the razor around the deep folds in my face
that have formed over the past few years.
I look in the mirror. It is all there in front of
me: the bags under my eyes, the furrowed
forehead, the corners of my mouth that used to be
mobile but have now descended into a permanently
sad expression. I try to convince myself that I am as
old as my face, which is not at all how I feel. Mine is
already the face of an older man, sombre and serious,
with thin lips and wrinkles. I have aged with the years
and with the occupation. This day, 5 June 2017, marks
its 50th anniversary.
Past anniversaries of the occupation used to arouse
strong feelings in me. I would try to ward them off by
taking a long walk in the hills. It used to be possible to
leave the city behind me. This was preferable to staying
at home and brooding. Today, I will walk to my law
offi ce, taking my time. My fi rst meeting is not until
1.30pm. Perhaps more will be happening than I expect.
I st and in front of the shirts and coats from diff erent
periods of my life. I am tempted to believe
that, like my city, my wardrobe – the
The long read
A restaurant in
Ramallah, 2013
ILIA YEFIMOVICH/
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