For centuries, Iranians have
practised the ritual of Fal’e Hafez
(Ask Hafez), opening a book of
his poetry at random and taking
guidance from whatever line they see
first. “Most Iranian families have the
collected works of Hafez to consult
when faced with difficult decisions,”
says Vahid. Outside the gate, a man
stands holding a box of cards bearing
the poet's words. For a fee, his pet
budgie will pull a card out with its
beak to solve your dilemma.
IF POETRY IS PART OF THE SOUL
of Iran, so too is its cuisine. In the
sixth century BC, Cyrus the Great
founded the first Persian empire,
the Achaemenid empire, which
eventually stretched from the Balkan
Peninsula to north-western India and
south to Egypt. Persian ingredients
such as saffron and rosewater spread
throughout the empire, while caravans
travelling along the Silk Road—that
ancient highway that snaked from
China to Europe—brought rice and
citrus fruits from Asia.
Persian dishes are fragrant and
finely balanced, with spices like
saffron and sumac; herbs like mint
and fenugreek; fruits like barberry
and pomegranate; and nuts such as
pistachios and almonds. Rice has
been elevated to an art form, with
tahdig—the crispy, golden crust at
the bottom of the pot—the dish by
which every Persian cook is judged.
Fesenjan (chicken stew with
walnuts and pomegranate molasses)88 • AUGUST 2019
TALES OF THE UNEXPECTED
British passport holders need a
visa for Iran and must travel as part
of an organised tour. Check with
the Iranian embassy (en.london.
mfa.ir) for more information.
Yomadic (yomadic.com) offers
12-day tours of Iran from £2,025
per person, excluding airfares.Travel Tips
"BEFORE THE REVOLUTION WE WORE
MINI SKIRTS, DRANK WINE AND DANCED"